87 4Runner Build

[dsrtrcr01]

Welcome to the club...

I run the TC caddy kit, TC steering and Fox coilover (lower uniball and Fox bypass sitting on the work bench waiting). Got the entire kit with front and rear 4.56 gears for a deal I could not pass up.

Had Deaver make a custom set of F67 with a little more arch and I believe a leaf or 2 extra for the weight of the rear of a 4runner.

I really wanted the JD race kit making it 2wd. Friend runs that on his 4runner and it is awesome.

For the rear window... There could be a couple reasons. The gear strips. Pull the interior panel. Pull the regulator. Find the stripped gears. Make teeth by welding and then grinding into shape. I did this when I first got mine and it has been great for over 10yrs now. The shell needs to have the 2nd bolt from the rear on the driver side installed (with the correct length bolt) or it will not work. There is a micro switch or something on that bolt.

If you ever have starting issues let me know... There is a hack to fix it. Acts like it needs starter contacts but even with a new contacts or a new starter it did it. Found the fix and has been great for years also.

I agree... Run a coilover for now and then add the bypass when you can afford or find used or if you even need it. I have been coilover only for years and years.

 

[sc610]

Old tc ball joint kit would fit with the parts store requirement part but you’d be more likely to find a ubiball kit. F67s out back is what most Toyota dudes use and would help with the added weight of the rear end.

I have no personal experience with the king IBP but @Turboyota has them on the front of his 2wd pickup and likes them.

A uniball kit isn't too far off from part store availability, I'm ok with that. The last truck needed custom axle shafts, custom steering linkage, parts from 5 different trucks....it made regular maintenance items more of a pain in the ass.

Dual 2.0s ftw.

But for real, it’s easy to mount a 2.5 coil over and 2.5 bypass on the 4wd platform. Wouldn’t mess with a 2.5 internal bypass coil over. it’s just a less effective shock until it hits the bump zone. Then it becomes a regular 2.5 shock.
You can always add a regular bypass shock later if you decided that you need it.

I do want a capable truck, I just wasn't sure if 12" of travel would see a significant benefit of a secondary bypass. If the consensus is that performance is just marginally better, I still might opt for the IBP for noise and frankly because I'm curious to see how they work. Budget is greatly improved by finding a used set of coilovers though.

Welcome to the club...

I run the TC caddy kit, TC steering and Fox coilover (lower uniball and Fox bypass sitting on the work bench waiting). Got the entire kit with front and rear 4.56 gears for a deal I could not pass up.

Had Deaver make a custom set of F67 with a little more arch and I believe a leaf or 2 extra for the weight of the rear of a 4runner.

I really wanted the JD race kit making it 2wd. Friend runs that on his 4runner and it is awesome.

For the rear window... There could be a couple reasons. The gear strips. Pull the interior panel. Pull the regulator. Find the stripped gears. Make teeth by welding and then grinding into shape. I did this when I first got mine and it has been great for over 10yrs now. The shell needs to have the 2nd bolt from the rear on the driver side installed (with the correct length bolt) or it will not work. There is a micro switch or something on that bolt.

If you ever have starting issues let me know... There is a hack to fix it. Acts like it needs starter contacts but even with a new contacts or a new starter it did it. Found the fix and has been great for years also.

I agree... Run a coilover for now and then add the bypass when you can afford or find used or if you even need it. I have been coilover only for years and years.

So the 4runner needs a little extra arch? What size tires are you running? Can I do 35s?

I just checked on my way out and the bolt for the top switch is not in, so that's hopefully the issue!

 

[Horunner]

A uniball kit isn't too far off from part store availability, I'm ok with that. The last truck needed custom axle shafts, custom steering linkage, parts from 5 different trucks....it made regular maintenance items more of a pain in the ass.

What? On an old Toyota you needed custom axels and parts from 5 different trucks for a tc kit? I have arms the same length as tc and the axels off a t100 slide right in. Also have stock steering except extended stock adjuster sleeves.

 

[sc610]

No, specifically my old truck was a tundra with Dana 50 ttb. So lots of one off stuff. This build will not go that direction.

 

[Turboyota]

What? On an old Toyota you needed custom axels and parts from 5 different trucks for a tc kit? I have arms the same length as tc and the axels off a t100 slide right in. Also have stock steering except extended stock adjuster sleeves.

His tundra had d50 beams and a 14 bolt if I remember correctly


Edit. Beat me by 17 seconds

 

[dsrtrcr01]

The really old TC kit was 2 over and needed custom axles also... Friend has that.

I run 33 inch tires which needed clearancing in the rear of the 4runner. See Turboyotas recent posts of doing his friends. My pictures were lost to the photobucket gods.

35s would probably need some front work also.

the rear of the 4runner weighs a significant amount more then a pickup due to the tailgate structure and the shell. So I had a little more arch to help with the weight. Friends are running off the shelf F67 with good results.

 

[Horunner]

No, specifically my old truck was a tundra with Dana 50 ttb. So lots of one off stuff. This build will not go that direction.

Gotcha, thought you we were specifically talking about an 86-95 Toyota pickup/4Runner.

 

[Turboyota]

To run bigger than 31” tires, the inner fenderwells will need to be completely cut out. Body also needs significant trimmage.

31” tire is hitting the inner fenderwell at full bump, and axle is about 4” below the frame.

I kept the 12” shocks under the bed, so suspension travel is limited to 13.5”

If you want to retain the factory e-brake stuff, rear up travel is limited by the cables.

 

[dsrtrcr01]

I did the same with the bed as Turbo but went a little further up. I trimmed about 2 inches out fo the factory bump stop area bracket. I run 18 inch bypasses through the bed with a Shifter boot acting as a dust shield to keep interior nice.

I get about 17 strapped and bumped out

 

[ucd baja]

This is cool, excited to follow along on this build and hopefully do some trip in the future!