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Senior Member
Mar 29, 2017
I did the same with the bed as Turbo but went a little further up. I trimmed about 2 inches out fo the factory bump stop area bracket. I run 18 inch bypasses through the bed with a Shifter boot acting as a dust shield to keep interior nice.

I get about 17 strapped and bumped out
I’d get exactly 17” travel with shocks through the bed where it’s bumped currently.

Bumps stick into the passenger compartment by 1.5”, but it’ll still be comfortable to sleep in there with a mattress.

If you bail the e-brake and inner fenderwells and bump the axle all the way to the frame, 19-20” travel is achievable.


Well-known member
Jan 31, 2005
Current limiting factor on mine is the inner fenders and the stock bump stop pad. I did not want to go all the way because of the additional work.
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Feb 26, 2019
Welcome to the club...

I run the TC caddy kit, TC steering and Fox coilover (lower uniball and Fox bypass sitting on the work bench waiting). Got the entire kit with front and rear 4.56 gears for a deal I could not pass up.

Had Deaver make a custom set of F67 with a little more arch and I believe a leaf or 2 extra for the weight of the rear of a 4runner.

I really wanted the JD race kit making it 2wd. Friend runs that on his 4runner and it is awesome.

For the rear window... There could be a couple reasons. The gear strips. Pull the interior panel. Pull the regulator. Find the stripped gears. Make teeth by welding and then grinding into shape. I did this when I first got mine and it has been great for over 10yrs now. The shell needs to have the 2nd bolt from the rear on the driver side installed (with the correct length bolt) or it will not work. There is a micro switch or something on that bolt.

If you ever have starting issues let me know... There is a hack to fix it. Acts like it needs starter contacts but even with a new contacts or a new starter it did it. Found the fix and has been great for years also.

I agree... Run a coilover for now and then add the bypass when you can afford or find used or if you even need it. I have been coilover only for years and years.
What is this starter trick? I welded the contacts on mine by being a lazy fuck using a battery jumper the other day. Picked up a new Denso unit this morning...
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Well-known member
Jan 31, 2005
So... Truck would just click, Click, Click. I hit the starter with a hammer an would start everyonce in a while. New battery, Would start for a while then click. New contacts... Would start for a while then click. New starter all together... Start for a while then click. So basically if you had brand new stuff all worked well.

Found the issue is in later year Toyotas the starter solenoid sent the start signal/power through the ignition then out to the starter instead of from battery to the starter like previous years. Over time the cables got old and did not carry as much current. So current would drop by the time it hit the starter. Trick is to cut the cable running through the key and jumper it to the battery cable running to the starter. basically eliminating many feet of wire. Took forever to find the info

I will get out in the garage and get a pic of the wire colors and do a little write up tonight for you


Well-known member
Jan 31, 2005
What is this starter trick? I welded the contacts on mine by being a lazy fuck using a battery jumper the other day. Picked up a new Denso unit this morning...
Ok. If your toyota has this solenoid thing then the plug that goes to it need modifying.

1) cut the black wire on the body hy arness side plug. They are all black so going counterclockwise there is a smaller black with a red chaser. Then a larger black with a white chaser, then the all black one you cut. The 4th looks identical solid black.
2) run a wire from positive side of the battery into the plug. Solder/heat shrink blah blah
3) crimp off/heat shrink the bare wire sticking out of harness so no more bare wire.
4) have a truck that starts everytime
5) Profit. (Really. You can. I have made my friends shop money with this fix on multiple occasions) done it to 2 other 4Runners in our group with same positive outcomes.






Senior Member
Oct 21, 2007
phelan, ca
Ive heard great things about the JD kit but have no experience with it. Ive ran 2 different TC kits on my 4runner and dont have any complaints about either of them.

In the rear Ive got an F67 pack that was custom made to hold the extra weight of the shell. Deaver re-worked the pack again and added another leaf in there since I started carrying a lot more weight in it than I originally intended. With a 9" shackle mounted under the frame I cycle 16.5" bumped and strapped. To stuff a 33x12.50 in the back it took A LOT of chopping/tubbing to get them to fit.


Well-known member
Jan 31, 2005
Bobby is running the JD 3 over kit on this one:

Same truck new paint job.

Doug is running the JD 2wd kit on this one (2wd Toyota frame)


Mine and Dan are running TC caddy kits. Another Dan is running the Tc 3 over prior to the caddy and then Lenny is running the TC 2 over old kit.

Both companies are solid.


Senior Member
Jan 28, 2011
Santa Cruz
Damn there is some solid info in here! Thanks everyone. Getting anxious to dig into this thing!

I'll definitely be running 33s. I had wanted to run 35s but I didn't realize it would be so much fender cutting. On my old rock crawler, I ran 35s but it was super tall and probably never reached proper ful bump.

I just found out these autos didn't use a gear driven tcase, and the tcase is actually pumped and cooled with ATF. You also can't put a gear driven tcase behind them. A low geared tcase is mandatory for crawling (for me). So...I'll also be looking to eventually swap the auto for the r151 manual transmission that came in these trucks.


Uno mas Cervesa!
May 14, 2004
Toyota starter contacts.

They usually are not seated right and have sharp edges. These arc out and eventually stop making contact.

When installing new ones, I debut the edges first, make sure they are sitting flat. Then takes some heavy valve grinding compound and lap them to the plunger. Clean with contact cleaner and reassemble without the return spring on the plunger.

All the high torque starters have the same solenoid, I have been prepping them this way for years without failures.
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