A retarded trophy truck

84projectford

Senior Member
Sep 8, 2010
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Phoenix Az
Like to hear the stuff about the Dmax trucks too, as that is the next planned vehicle. Planning to stay stock with a cold air intake on an LML, and looking for one in the 40-80K mile range. I was reading that when the CP4 goes out, it wipes out the entire fuel system costing 7K+ in repairs. Is that true? and if so, is it possible to replace it at a certain mile interval for a cheaper price and save the rest of the fuel system?
depends on the year LML. 11-13 had some issues with the CP4 more so than the later years. there is also a couple other issues to watch out for in those years. personally id get a 15.5-16 if it were me for the newer body style and updates. Sinister and a couple other places offer a kit now that puts a filter in place incase a cp4 goes. it cost 7k cause dealers rape you. they claim you need to replace everything from cp4 all the way to the injectors (fuel rails, fuel lines, sensors, etc). a good sonic cleaner will get the junk out of the hard lines/rails. id then see if any injectors actually plug up or are bad. you will know quickly and they are easy to change. then just replace the bad ones. Otherwise, replace the CP4 every 100k and roll on. there is also a cp3 conversion but unless you have a tuner that can get in teh truck and tune it, wouldnt do it. the scaling of the regulator is a pain in the ass and requires alot of fine tuning that most big guys never take the time for.
 

Josh40601

OG Member
Feb 5, 2010
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yea it will be a very stock setup, especially being here in California. I like the 11-14 body style the best, and read the 11s had a lot of emission issues on them, but 12-16 were pretty much the same engine/trans wise. Sounds like that is not the case?
 

84projectford

Senior Member
Sep 8, 2010
675
129
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Phoenix Az
if you want good info from the net on these trucks, read up on duramaxdiesels.com. duramax forum and diesel place are full of retards...

nothing wrong with the 11's compared to the later models. 11-12 had TCM issues that cause all kinds of funky codes or driving issues. in 15.5 GM went to its own allison shifting software and went away from Allison programming the tcm's so in my opinion, they dont shift quite as crisp but the newer updates seem to help. 11-14 have this weird fan shroud issue where the rubber between the fan cage and shroud flips over and rubs on the radiator which then causes it to leak. probably a couple other things im missing but the interior of the 11-15 is cheap imho. the 15.5-16 are way nicer.
 
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84projectford

Senior Member
Sep 8, 2010
675
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Phoenix Az
So this thing was suppose to get a hone job on all cyl or a bore over if the blown out piston gouged the cyl up.... yeah well in true cheap fuck fasion, that didnt happen. I fyou guys come across a 2009 black lifted cc/sb duramax thats deleted with 170k on it in az for sale from a dealer, dont buy it. Not because my cyl repair will be an issue, its because the pistons in this thing are going to be an issue down the road. I would have still much rather preferred to bore the bitch over but the cyl is going to be the least of the engines worries at this point.

Anyhow, once i got back to the engine the next day, i started scrubbing the cyl wall with muriatic acid. It eats aluminum like a zymbabway kid on a cheeseburger.

before, nothing done to the mess


about 20-30min of scrubbing with a brass brush and acid.


and after honing and reasembling the short block (pulled the crank to check bearings and keep debris off it). went through alot of shop rags keeping shit out of places it shouldnt go. fuck doing this again. 240grit ball hone, 600rpm and lots of lube/stroking got her gooooooood. You can see just some faint scores left and on the left hand side, just a little discoloring on the cyl from where the piston blew. only opened up .0006 on the cyl and taper/out of round are still right in spec. surprisingly the two cyl on either side showed even wear as well.


new rings back on the piston after checking gap (.018 top and .020 second ring, good for stock, not what id run in a performance engine) and slammed it home. reassembled the engine and dropped it off to be put back in. i started reassembly the wednesday before tg after work at 5, had it back together and in the bed of my truck by 1am. That included new head bolts, grade c headgaskets (on the thicker side to keep piston to head clearance at around .028) checking piston protrusion, torquing everything to spec, valve lashing, cleaning up the injectors and putting new seals on them, and fixing some "soon to be issues" like coolant hoses and what not. It was up and running as of monday and went to a dealer for trade in today lmao. She started right up and purred like a kitten. when my buddy took it for a drive i rode in it and realized RIGHT away why this thing popped. the damn h&s tuner is running so much fucking timing it rattles terribly if you hit the throttle hard to get out in traffic till boost starts coming on or rpms get over 2k. horrible shit.

So shes gone and he got a new 2017 L5P duramax.

one more tid bit of dmax knowledge. GM off sets the wrist pin on all factory duramax pistons (still need to confirm L5P though) by .030. the idea is to quiet piston slap on cold starts. personally, i never hear it cause i feel timing and pre/post injection event contribute more to engine noise than that BUT all aftermarket pistons have centered wrist pins. they also have a tapered oiling hole in the bottom of them that lines up perfectly with the oil squirters to cycle oil through the center of the piston so they are bank specific. So if you are putting stock pistons in your truck, you need to make sure you have a left and right bank. easy way to tell is by the pic below.



the top triangle circled will point to the blocks valley/rocker area or UP. if its pointing to the outside of the block where the exhaust would be going, its upside down. next is the bottom red circle. you see a number and arrow pointing to what would be the front of the block. this means it is a right side (cyl 1,3,5,7) piston to orient the oil squirter with the pistons ports. the number will be 1 digit higher or lower than the other banks pistons and they will all have arrows that should point to the blocks front. Aftermarket does not have a bank specific side as they make the oil port work on either side. Just a little fun fact.
 
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84projectford

Senior Member
Sep 8, 2010
675
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Phoenix Az
So currently waiting on my second kid to pop out so i can figure out where my play funds lay. Hes due just about any day now. Plan is to take the tracker down to a mexican frame shop and have them get it back semi straight just to drive around on. Shouldnt be too big of an issue. ill plate where the frame tore and bent up then build a strut bar to support the frame rails from twisting in towards the engine. She wont get as hammered on as mexico again (you all know thats a load of horse shit but it sounds good to my brain). once thats done, i can fucking finally start on the god damn front end. its literally next in line as house shit is caught up and my diesel just got a shit ton of work done to it that apparently it decided it wanted to shit out.

Some of which includes:
pulled lower oil pan to fix leak (wasnt the issue and what a pain in the ass that was)

put new cyl 2 and 7 injector wire connections on (LLY typically have the connection go bad in the connect, drops connection and you drop to 4 injectors to run on since one injector drops out kills a whole bank)

pulled my lift pump to fix what i thought was a bad o-ring but found out the motor seal was shot and AirDog wont sent you that seal. So instead, i got a brand new upgraded pump. got 10 years out of the old pump so i aint bitching

Go to move the truck back in for the night after putting the new pump in and the water pump starts leaking and hydroboost is weeping good now.

had a dunes trip the next weekend and no one had a welded water pump (pump gear is tigged on to keep the gear from spinning off). took a napa pump to my buddies and tigged both the impeller and gear on to keep them from spinning off at 4k rpm (under that, they usually stay together). Put a new hydroboost on and off we went.

Week between christmas and new years i spent on the truck again putting an aux radiator in teh front for more cooling when towing during the summer, she gets hot using my 600hp tow tune and pull a 37ft toy hauler. That required changing back to my stock 02 bumper as the old prerunner bumper i built years ago wont clear and i couldnt make a new one that looked good. i like the stock bumper with the fenders though. Then ran new oil cooler lines, changed the intank sending unit as mine would read like shit at 1/8 tank and below. re-oringed a trans cooler line connection at the radiator. Put a new amp in the truck for the subs and changed out the dead inverter for a new one to charge my laptop.

a metric fuck ton of work but here are some pics of the fixes

soldering on new connections for injectors


dead lift pump seal. it was leaking in and then out the weep hole. going to find that seal and fix it so i have a back up to sit on the shelf and collect dust cause i know ill never use the fucker


aux rad in



air to oil cooler relocated (aftermarket as well, factory is just a water to oil cooler. i run both)


fixed sender. i run a 5/8" pick up line as the stock one narrows to 3/8" in spots and will starve my pumps of fuel.


all cleaned up. My buddy/detailer broke the pass side signal light out of the truck so it looks a little funky. new one should be here any day.

 
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84projectford

Senior Member
Sep 8, 2010
675
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Phoenix Az
brought the shit box back into the garage couple weeks ago.



Hey look! I got a wheelable/drivable vehicle again!

That piece of fuck chevy diesel of mine ate a hg so I need a rig to drive while I fix that.

Frame was bent up 2*. Got it all on jack stands, leveled and hacked the frame just in front of the body mount with the plasma. Only left the very bottom connected. Jumped on the front end a bit and lowered it down 1”. Bought it right back where it should be

Burned in


Fish plates for over the welds


Burned in. Not pretty but don’t really care cause it’s not staying


Now, the tweaked in frame rails. No doing a damn thing. They literally are 1/8” off from straight so 0 fucks given. add a little camber and off we go. In the mean time, I still need to build a strut crossbar to stop it from getting worse

Next I figured I’d put the calimini front springs in from my buddy. Well.... that was a fucking waste of time. Clearly 2 door first gens get a much lighter spring rate. Nothing like being 1/8" from coil bind with 3" of shock shaft left.



So out that shit came and the spacer/stock spring went back in.

Set camber so I have just a bit of positive at ride height and set toe.

Then dropped the back preload back to 0 and dropped nitrogen level to 200psi.

Off for a test drive and I forgot how squishy this bitch is. like a van buren slut, just throwing your hot dog down the hall way. Miss that!

This past saturday, made up two new bushings to put in the spindles. She’s much more goodererer now. Really uneventful but you can see below how thin the old bushings were and why I didn’t trust them






Bronze I started with on left, new bushing middle and old one I punched out on right



Comparison photos for fun








Popped in, seal in, greased up and ready to toss back on. I did throw the spindles on the lathe to check to see if they are bent and they are still straight as can be so that’s good.

 

84projectford

Senior Member
Sep 8, 2010
675
129
43
Phoenix Az
I swore this day would never come.... finally got to start on the front end setup.

First was the “let’s tempt fate” with tearing the frame section down.



Yes yes... those are ratchet straps. Sadly, I’m not dead or wheel chair bound. It actually went very uneventful.



With all the fun out of the way, it was off to setting up the jig to see how far off the calimini arms would be. Got a deal on these and they would be easier to hack up and make work than my other plans.



Those sweet tabs



Measured out 3” from the knuckle, cut the tack and moved the whole thing out 3”. Squared up and tacked down well. Still going to add more bracing once I get ready to burn everything in including from the arm to the table. Then dropped the calimini arm in to see how far off I was. The frame mount points are 3/8” narrower than the second gen (these are first gen trackick arms) so I pulled the inside bushings out to get them to drop in. It’s soooooo close. Damn near 3” wider than stock second gen as is!





It’s 1” too far back towards what would be the firewall. I technically have the room to just run it this way but by the time the ball joint would drop into the knuckle, it would be 1/2” shorter. Sooo out came the plasma. Cut the tubing off at the boxed area where the spring goes and started grinding my life away and cutting tube.

Made a whole new rear pivot with .250 wall 2” tube for the bushings to ride in and .250 wall 1.75” tube to connect to the boxed section from the bushing. 1/4” brace throw in. Other side just took a little grinding and tacked back into place





That’s where I stopped for the day. I plan to box in the top of where the spring would go and double shear how the ball joint mounts. The coilovers will be mounting there. Then buzz it all in. I may add some more .120 tube cut in half to the bottom of the front tube to give it strength against rocks. It’s already .188 wall but can’t hurt. Fucking things already weight a ton. I’ll get weights when I’m done adding plate
 

Turboyota

Senior Member
Mar 29, 2017
2,688
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Yucaipa
1. Stellar fucking fixturing!
2. Superb hacking and modifying of the almost-correct Calmini arm
3. What the fuck is going on with the strut-style spindle and coilover mounting to the lower arm? How is that going to be packaged?
4. I don’t see any of the 70’s porno that I wrapped your coilovers in plastered all over your garage. What. The. Fuck. Over.
 

84projectford

Senior Member
Sep 8, 2010
675
129
43
Phoenix Az
1. Stellar fucking fixturing!
2. Superb hacking and modifying of the almost-correct Calmini arm
3. What the fuck is going on with the strut-style spindle and coilover mounting to the lower arm? How is that going to be packaged?
4. I don’t see any of the 70’s porno that I wrapped your coilovers in plastered all over your garage. What. The. Fuck. Over.
1. And 2. Thanks turdblow, I strive to do piss poor work and halfassery that DR approves of. Ok, fuck that, no I don’t!

3. “Idea” is to run some .250 wall or .188 wall square tube chromoly off the two bolt holes straight up with a weld in bung for a 3/4” bolt and have a uniball or heim mount vertically in the UCA so I keep full range of steering. Sounds good in my retarded brain.

4. I have yet to even open the fucking package! To appease the turdblow, I shall open it this week. No posting though. My 3 year old daughter just decided today to start running around the house yelling “fuck it”. No damn joke. It’s pretty apparent that her mother needs to knock that fucking shit off.... no way in hell its my fault. Fucking little shit.

So in other words, I don’t want day care coming to me asking why she’s drawing boobs or dicks from pics she saw. I’m already on thin ice when a boy pushed my daughter and she told me while I was there. the first thing I said to my daughter was “well I hope you shoved him back!”. Totally forgot that shits unacceptable to say in a school environment after the teacher gave me a little lecture on “what they are suppose to do” but I ain’t raising no little whimp of a kid.

Ok, real reason is they will end up in my bathroom
 

84projectford

Senior Member
Sep 8, 2010
675
129
43
Phoenix Az
She’s ready to be welded up.

1/4" Top plate made up and tacked in. Lays right on top of where the spring use to go then steps down to lay right on top of the ball joint with a cunt hair of space in there so I can get the fucker out still. Opinions to torch out a notch and buzz part of the top plate to the raised circle that the plate is current resting on?


Old arm on top of the new one. Shit lines up!



Machined some steel bushings to take place of the poly so I don’t burn them up welding. Didn’t have anything to go from 1.5” to .75” so a couple pieces of tube did the job.



I fucked up and didn’t make them 2.5” wide though, just 2” so I just put some 1/4” plate between the tabs and the arm pivot to center it. Made some overlays too to buzz on once the tube is welded

Hopefully Saturday I get it buzzed in and finish the second arm
 
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