All HREW and flux core, yet less ghetto than before

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themoneypit

member
Jul 30, 2018
430
542
93
Missouri
What's your tricks for getting the flux to look decent? And is this off a 110 machine?
Nah, it's a 220v Lincoln 180 from Lowes.

I stick to the standard "pause and whip" sort of technique for most beads. As far as tricks go, probably trigger welding honestly. In hard to reach/awkward areas, I decided I'm better off with quality trigger welds than shitty beads. Welding hood delay on the minimum setting, and I use it for timing of the tacks/trigger welds. I shoot for ~50% overlap, previous weld is still very hot, and easily re-melts into the new puddle forming next to it. That way you're getting more of a pulse-MIG effect than a continuous string of cold joints.

Edit: Oh, and LIGHT. Once I started blasting the hell out of my work piece with light instead of relying on the arc to illuminate things, my welding improved significantly. With just the arc (and normal garage lights) lighting the area, I couldn't see anything more than 1/4" away from the puddle while welding. This led to shitty zig-zag weld beads since I couldn't clearly tell where I was going.

It turns out you can weld a lot better when you aren't trying to do it blind.
 
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themoneypit

member
Jul 30, 2018
430
542
93
Missouri
Pretty much all of the normal brake hardline mounting solutions seemed sort of chintzy to me, so I did some digging and ordered a bunch of these.
222848


They're bicycle cable guide mounts that are normally brazed on, but they're mild steel and can be welded. Cable tie slips through the gap to hold the lines in place. Makes for a cleaner look compared to fold-over tabs or p-clamps.
 

themoneypit

member
Jul 30, 2018
430
542
93
Missouri
Finally warmed back up a bit here as well, so I finished welding up the other mezzanine arm on Sunday. Still covered in flux core bird shit like the other, but I can finally clean them both up and throw some primer on them tonight now that the cold is gone.

222849


Still debating over whether or not the shock mount area needs an external overlay plate. I kind of feel like its overkill at this point, but who knows. I'm no engineer, and just throwing shit at the wall to see what sticks.
 

partybarge_pilot

Uno mas Cervesa!
May 14, 2004
14,098
6,794
113
Boringsville
Pretty much all of the normal brake hardline mounting solutions seemed sort of chintzy to me, so I did some digging and ordered a bunch of these.
View attachment 222848

They're bicycle cable guide mounts that are normally brazed on, but they're mild steel and can be welded. Cable tie slips through the gap to hold the lines in place. Makes for a cleaner look compared to fold-over tabs or p-clamps.
Link? My google-fu is weak.
 

themoneypit

member
Jul 30, 2018
430
542
93
Missouri
Link? My google-fu is weak.
Ceeway has the ones pictured above with the higher ridges (http://www.framebuilding.com/Braze ons.htm). They're oldschool though and only do orders by email/phone. Nova Cycles sells them as well, but with a shallower depression with less pronounced ridges (https://www.cycle-frames.com/HYDRO-BRAKE-CABLE-GUIDE-ZIP.html).

Same kind used on my old Gary Fisher MTB, so I called up Trek to figure out where they sourced them from.
 

FasterNU

Mega Member
Jun 28, 2006
7,983
1,593
113
San Diego
Pretty much all of the normal brake hardline mounting solutions seemed sort of chintzy to me, so I did some digging and ordered a bunch of these.
View attachment 222848

They're bicycle cable guide mounts that are normally brazed on, but they're mild steel and can be welded. Cable tie slips through the gap to hold the lines in place. Makes for a cleaner look compared to fold-over tabs or p-clamps.

care to share a link? .... finding some good hard line mounts for brake lines has been on my mind...

HAHAH OOPS!!! How did i miss barges reply!??? Leaving it just so everyone knows how retarded I can be. LOL
 

themoneypit

member
Jul 30, 2018
430
542
93
Missouri
Still too cold to fab anything, but the 9 inch center finally came in. Ended up going with a Strange nodular housing/pinion support, 4.86 gears, and a Detroit/Eaton TrueTrac. Should move the truck fairly well with ~300 HP and 35s. Can finally get some measurements for the driveshaft shop as well.


223271
 

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