All HREW and flux core, yet less ghetto than before

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themoneypit

member
Jul 30, 2018
524
752
93
Missouri
Threw the shocks on the rear for mockup and realized I'm an idiot. I bought bypasses with the tubes clocked the wrong way. As they are now, the tubes will smash into the mezzanine arms at bump, and they'll hit the coilover at droop if I reverse them. Since these are oldschool Foxes, I'll have to pull the top caps and grind down the bodies a smidge to re-clock them...
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To reinforce the A-pillar area, I sank two pieces of 3x3 square tubing through slots in the floor that straddled the existing cab floor box section. I then plated this to the frame-side cab mount and boxed in the bottom side.
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Decided to do something different with the A-pillar reinforcement, and by the end I kind of hated it. I'm tempted to just plasma the whole mess off along with the cab mount and throw a tube in its place. It's fully welded though, so I guess I should just live with it. I'll have another tube supporting the area ~4 inches forward anyway.
 

Turboyota

Senior Member
Mar 29, 2017
5,630
6,380
113
Yucaipa
I don’t hate your A-pillar reinforcement at all.

I was gonna say rotate the bypass mounts 90 degrees as well, but barge beat me to it. You can probably mount the coilover 90 as well to keep things copacetic.
 
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themoneypit

member
Jul 30, 2018
524
752
93
Missouri
Couldn't find any decent screw-type jacks locally, so I decided to go ahead and make a pair of jack stands. 3" .188 wall outer tube with a 2.5" .120 wall inner tube drilled in 1" increments. 3/16" base plate with 1" square tube diagonals. 27" collapsed and 42" fully extended.
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They're 90% complete as is, just have to pick up some 2" round tube so I can make the rotating cups for the top, and then add some locking tabs to the four pins. Maybe a bit overkill, but they'll be plenty tall enough to let me fully cycle the rear suspension.
 

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