Stock Ranger fuel sender reads from 15-156 ohms, and all of the universal senders output the generic Chevy 0-90 ohm readings. Added a 15 ohm resistor in-line, which should theoretically make my empty reading accurate, and the gauge will read ~2/3 when the tank is full. Gauge shows right at half full with 21/26 gallons in the fuel cell.
Just have to re-learn what "full" means, and the gauge should read accurately when empty. Works for me.
Trimmed the hood to fit around the engine cage cross-tube and the bumper tubes. With the inner structure clearanced, the engine cross-tube clears the outer skin by ~2mm. Hood front corners are a bit floppy after the trimming, so I'll need to add some hood pins eventually. Stock latch works for now though.
Didn't even realize this hood was aluminum until I started cutting into it. Sure made the install/removal cycle much easier.
Installed the rear window with butyl tape, door seals/weather stripping, driver's seat/harness, and the bulk of the interior. Wasn't a fan of how close live battery terminals were to the floor, so I threw in a 1/4" HDPE spacer for some insulation.
Installed rear suspension stover nuts, charged rear bumps to 60 PSI, front bumps to 90 PSI, and all shocks to 200 PSI as a baseline. Plugged in the various EVAP system valves/sensors, and that immediately cleared the remaining check engine lights. I guess this year of truck got a fairly "dumb" system that isn't looking for legitimate sensor feedback.
Rear end is 9" from the bumps with zero preload. I'll run it through inspection on Tuesday as-is, but up next is a proper alignment and messing with the front/rear preload. Going to shoot for 60/40 bump/droop in the rear, and the front will likely end up closer to 70/30 bump/droop once it is leveled.