And Another One (Major Key Alert) - La Puerca Plata

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J4Roe

Chair Donkey
Sep 23, 2020
218
234
43
Phoenix
BUMP

I need some PRO TIPS from the boyyyyyyysssssss. I took the jack outside yesterday afternoon to finally get around to putting on the 1" coil spacer on the rear of the pig. I was surprised to find out that we have air bags for towing which to my knowledge wasn't a factory option until 2005. I decided I didn't want to mess with going to rent a spring compressor and doing it that way so I opted to disconnect anything that was limiting droop to get the rear end low enough for the springs to just fall out.

First, I got the lower shock mount unbolted. Rear end didn't move. Ok so the shocks aren't limiting droop, the sway bar is. Unbolt the sway bar links, nothing moved. Rear end didn't droop out at all. So now I'm like ok it's the damn brake lines that bolt to the lower link. Unbolt, Plenty of slack. Nothing. Ok, I guess the panhard bar is next. Unbolt, nothing. Lower links, unbolt and it dropped an inch. How is it possible for the upper link to bind? I loosened the nut for the upper links but didn't take the bolt out and that did it, The rear end drooped out another 3 or 4 inches and then I had plenty of room/space to just pull the stock coil spring out by hand.

I put the spacer on/into top of spring and fortunately the big rubber spring isolator fit down inside the spacer so I put it back in like that. I then went about reinstalling everything... Lower shocks, lower links and sway bar connected I couldn't get the panhard bar to line up. I was finally able to get the bolt pounded in but it will not line up with the eyelit so it's not grabbing thread. Not sure what the fuck the deal is. I've tried putting the axle at various stages of the suspension cycle to see if the hole lines up better but NADA AMIGOS... I was over it and it got dark on me so I put the wheels back on and lower it down off of the jacks. Shit definitely looks mean now. Rear pry got raised about 1.25-1.5" because of reusing the rubber spring pad isolator. Overall, happy with the look. Happy I found out we have bags and they were holding air.

So what do I need to do to get the damn panhard bar to bolt back up?????? Undo the lower links to get some side to side sway out of the rear end????? I'm assuming there's a specific sequence. I pry should have done panhard bar first and then bolted up the lower links after.

Also, why were the lower or upper links limiting down travel??? They had so much pressure and bind in them that even after removing the bolt for the lower link end at the axle the lower link wanted to stay up and it was hard to push down... Shit is garbage because I took a shit ton of measurements to see what I can do to get 11 or 12" of travel out of the rear.

I thought disconnecting sway bar would/should allow another 1 to 2 inches of down travel???? I disconnected and nothing. The shock will be the limiting factor either way but without the shock connected I should have been able to get more droop but the links were limiting that. I kind of thought maybe previous owner torqued them down too tight or not while the weight was on the axle??????

In stock form:
Full droop = 7 5/8" of total travel
Sway bar disconnected = 7 5/8" totoal
Lower link bolt loosened = 8 5/8" total travel. ( I think with a one inch longer shock this would be the "new" stock total travel length)
Upper link bolt loosened and panhard unbolted = 11 1/2" total inches of travel

Need some help from the GODS...

Thanks PROS

Joe


 

smokeysevin

is Ron Burgundy?
Dec 28, 2012
776
427
63
Houston
I don't know what the cause was but my buddy's current gen 4runner was like that as well. The rear links only let it drop so far even though it looks like they should droop further.

Thinking back on it, I wonder if the driveshaft was stuffed into the trans/tcase and that is what it was hanging on?

Sean
 
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85yota

TT Motorsports
Nov 18, 2004
10,280
1,449
113
Santa Maria, CA
www.tt-motorsports.com
Most OEM bushings are bonded and not a urethane bushing that the inner sleeve pivots on. The inner sleeve is bonded to rubber and it only rotates so far before it stops or tears the rubber. I have basically welded in a 1.5" ID sleeve into factory control arms to run standard urethane style bushings which i have and they fit any 1" OD inner sleeve so if you need some hit me up I got only like 80 of them in stock. Lol
 

J4Roe

Chair Donkey
Sep 23, 2020
218
234
43
Phoenix
I don't know what the cause was but my buddy's current gen 4runner was like that as well. The rear links only let it drop so far even though it looks like they should droop further.

Thinking back on it, I wonder if the driveshaft was stuffed into the trans/tcase and that is what it was hanging on?

Sean
I thought about that too but full droop and the plunger is extended... The plunger is reverse on this truck so instead of being at the rear diff the plunger is at the other end. It was doing it's thang and not the culprit.
 

J4Roe

Chair Donkey
Sep 23, 2020
218
234
43
Phoenix
I know zero about this truck but are the bushings rubber?

They don't rotate, just flex.

You may have been exceeding the flex angle?

Rubber bushings should be tightened at ride height also. (at least that's how I always did it)
Appears to be the correct answer ding ding ding... You and Tommy nailed it. After thinking about it, that's exactly what is going on. That's also why they pivot easily when nut is loosened a bit. The entire assembly can now rotate. That is incredibly stupid. These links are capable of another 3 inches of down travel if the bushing were urethane.
 
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J4Roe

Chair Donkey
Sep 23, 2020
218
234
43
Phoenix
Most OEM bushings are bonded and not a urethane bushing that the inner sleeve pivots on. The inner sleeve is bonded to rubber and it only rotates so far before it stops or tears the rubber. I have basically welded in a 1.5" ID sleeve into factory control arms to run standard urethane style bushings which i have and they fit any 1" OD inner sleeve so if you need some hit me up I got only like 80 of them in stock. Lol
Very soon I'm going to buy some heim kits and make new beefier lower, upper and panhard bar. I will need them then for sure. Previous to this convo I was looking to use a bushed sleeve like you can get from Muff Stuff or both end heims. I know I might have to cut and remake some of the mounts/ brackets but I want to get more travel out of this rear end. 8.25" isn't cutting it!!!
 

smokeysevin

is Ron Burgundy?
Dec 28, 2012
776
427
63
Houston
I thought about that too but full droop and the plunger is extended... The plunger is reverse on this truck so instead of being at the rear diff the plunger is at the other end. It was doing it's thang and not the culprit.
Oh derp yeahhhhh I was all sorts of bassackwards

Sean

Sent from my SM-A526U1 using Tapatalk
 
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J4Roe

Chair Donkey
Sep 23, 2020
218
234
43
Phoenix
BUMP for droop...

I don't even want to begin to explain yesterday's fist fuck of a fiasco. I loosened the lower link bolt at the diff, disconnected the sway bar links and unbolted the bottom shock mounts. I proceeded to start jacking up the rear end. As you go up from full droop the panhard bar starts making it's way to the right and eventually lines right up with the mount hole. I put the bolt in and started tightening. It's a super tight fit regardless but about 3 threads in the bolt gets hard to turn, real hard to turn. Crossthreaded?! Don't fucking tell me. You bitch! I back it out with effort initially and sure enough I fucked up the first 2 or 3 threads. Just mashed them down flat. I look through the mount to the welded nut on the other side and sure enough I had fucked up the first 2 threads on the nut as well. What a bitch! Fuck! That nut is welded into this steel box from the factory so replacing it would require cutting the whole damn bracket off of the axle. At that point you're half way home to custom fab so fuck that. Obviously this panhard has to be a fucking metric 14. Basically the Peter North of metric bolts so the odds of finding a M14x1.5 tap in Phoenix are slim to none. The latter being true I had to come to the realization that this wasn't being fixed "today". Because I'm stubborn I went and bought another 14x1.5 bolt to see if it would auto clean some of the threads and maybe screw all the way in. Naw. Wishful thinking. It ruined the first 2 or so threads of the new bolt so I left it alone and ordered a M14x1.5 tap from Amazon for overnight delivery.

So while I was out there I took a bunch of measurements and played with cycling the rear. I think whoever did the work before me must have tightened down the links and panhard with it being in the air off of it's own weight because now after tightening everything down the correct way I'm getting full droop of 8.25".

With an approximately one or so inch longer coil spring and a shock that is about 3.5" longer the Sequoia is capable of 11.5" of total travel. That was with stock bushings loose and none of the link ends were tightened so that could be a limiting factor after our conversation this morning. Let's say in theory if we can put urethane bushing in the links and panhard or heims the rear end could get 11.5" of total travel with stock geometry.

To get the 11.5" the panhard bar needs to be lengthened about an inch and the sway bar links need to be lengthened about an inch or so as well.

Taps have arrived so now it's time to go out and put the rear in the air for the 3rd time this week in 100 degree heat...

Joe
 

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