Another Toyota, on a Ranger site? This I have to see... (01 Tundra boring "build")

[smokeysevin]

I would love to run manual hubs on mine and might look into trying that, Im not a fan of the ADD system. I have heard the manual hubs setup may not be as strong but cant confirm that.
Yes the TC lower misalignment spacer is taller.

Excellent, that makes my choice easier.

The good news about the manual hubs is that you can now get aftermarket replacement wheel hubs and replacement parts now instead of searching for used parts. The hub kits are like $100 for the set now with bearing and seals.

As far as strength goes, its a tradeoff for me since my truck was 2wd and I didn't want to mess with wiring up the 4wd system.

From lots of reading, the common killer of axles on tundra front ends is over extending the cv in 4wd, this way I can lock out the hubs and still drive if something goes tits up. Worthwhile trade in my mind.

Sean

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[dose]

Could you post a link to the aftermarket hubs your talking about?
Do you have to use a spindle from a manual hub tacoma to pull this off?
I really like the idea of my axles not turning all the time.

I do know the tundra inner cv needs to be a real tundra one that has the 6 rolling balls in it to get the extra angle, (hope that makes sense) the autozone and other reman tundra axles are usually the tacoma tulip style with less available angle.
Also the metal lip the stock boot attaches to gets cut off and replaced with a larger 930 over the top style boot

 

[smokeysevin]

I went with these as the OEM ones I had were damaged.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/FRONT-WHEEL-HUB-BEARING-FOR-1995-2004-TOYOTA-TACOMA-4WD-1-SIDE-MANUAL-LOCK/292916701945?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Correct, I am hoping the aftermarket DTA axles I got are proper style but we will see, I need to do that tonight actually. They took a month and a half to arrive but were two different part numbers. I may have gotten burned but for $250 it may be worth it.

Spindles are the same from all year first gen tundras and tacomas with the exception of the abs sensor ring and hole. In your case, use the stock stuff on the truck.

I went with the high angle cv boot from trailgear.

Thanks for confirming my question about the TC Spacers, I have a set on the way now.

Here is a good reference for manual hub part numbers and whatnot: https://www.sonoransteel.com/junk_yard_manual_hubs.html
I ended up buying aftermarket hubs but new oe bearings, seals, and hardware. I am using used oe aisan lockouts, and aftermarket axles (we will see if that is really an option)

Sean

 

[smokeysevin]

Welp, I just requested a return on the axles, they were taco style tripods. Sucks to suck I guess. I had heard previously that the axle splines might be different between oem and aftermarket but I had not come across a different joint type when I was looking.

Oh well, 2 used oe tundra axles are on the way now.

Sean

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[smokeysevin]

I can happily report that the driveshaft splines on the aftermarket dta tacoma manual hub axle outer cv joints fit on the stock tundra inners.

You have to cut the stock tundra outer cv joint to free the balls, then you can remove the outer retainer clip. Once the cage is removed.

On the tacoma outers, you want to cut the axle as close to the cv as possible. Then you remove the balls and cage and grind the outer splines off the axle stub and remove it from the inner cv race.

Then its just a matter of reassembling.

Stock Tundra 4wd Outer

Unmolested DTA Tacoma Outer Axle

DTA CV with Dust Boot removed, notice the shoulder where the inner cv race is connected to the shaft. This area on the tundra axle has a c-clip while this is a hard shoulder on the taco axle. You want to cut the axle close to this shoulder to allow the CV to spin for ball removal.

Cut DTA Tacoma Manual Hub Outer

DTA Stub End cut and splines ground down to allow for removal of CV Inner Race. There is a small retaining ring that locks the inner cv race in place on the shaft. One side of the cv race is tapered while the other is a flat shoulder. The shoulder prevents you from pressing or using a puller to remove the inner race. I broke a 3 jaw puller to find this out so you didn't have to. Grind down the splines on the taco shaft and then use a puller or a hammer and punch to pop the remains of the once proud tacoma shaft out.

This picture needs to be updated, this is the tundra stock inner on the tundra shaft. Of course it fits.

Sean

 

[smokeysevin]

Winch and lights remounted. I need to throw the wiring and control box up somewhere.

Ballistic fab winch plate
Badlands 12k winch
Former reciever hitch frame

Plan on swapping out the roller fairlead for a flat one and getting a flat link for the front. I also need to pull everything off and put real paint on and not just primer.

Sean

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[SuperJerr]

That bumper is a Beast! Fashion & function.

 

[smokeysevin]

Manual transfer case shifter fab. The bracket bolts onto the rear of the stock t-case and should clear the floor better than what I am using now. Fingers crossed, I am going to try it on the truck tomorrow. At this point, it should work better than what I am using now as a stopgap.

Materials:

1.5" Wide 0.125" Thick mild steel

Tools:

Porter Cable 4x36 Belt and 8" Disc Sander
Milwaukee Portaband with Swag offroad table
Irwin Step Drill
Everlast I-mig 140e
Grizzly Vise Brake
Certiflat Welding Table

Parts:

Kartek 48" -04 Cable (2" Travel)
FK rod ends 1/4"-20 Rod ends
RadDesigns Twin Stick Shifter

PPE:

Miller Digital Infinity
Miller Blue Mig Gloves
Teva Flip-Flops


Sean

 

[smokeysevin]

Had to revise the passengers side of the bracket to pull it in closer to the mounting hole. Apparently the center line of my transmission is not in the center of the tunnel.

The clearance on top of the mount is also a little less than I would like but the cables clear and line up pretty well.

Going to pull it off, blast it with some paint and hook up the cables.


Sean

Sean

 

[smokeysevin]

Nothing terribly exciting, I made some replacements for my burnt up header collector gaskets.

My headers use a stupid flange pattern, its like a 3.5" flange but with a 2.25" opening. If you use the larger gaskets it doesnt seal, the stock toyota ring gaskets don't work with the aftermarket headers either so I run a 1/8" aluminum "gasket" that gets a coat of ultra copper rtv on both sides to "seal" before it burns up and leaks after 5k ish miles.

Sean