Another Toyota, on a Ranger site? This I have to see... (01 Tundra boring "build")

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smokeysevin

is Ron Burgundy?
Dec 28, 2012
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Houston
Why not lop off the flange and weld something else on?
I am going to swap to longtubes with v bands at some point. After the 2ish hours I spent working on that shit yesterday there is still popcorn being made somewhere. Might be happening sooner rather than later.


Sean
 

smokeysevin

is Ron Burgundy?
Dec 28, 2012
672
323
63
Houston
Finally started hooking shit up on my switchpros having the ability to see what you are working on is nice. I still need to wire in my dust lights, service lights, and reverse lights. My backup camera trigger is finally installed but the camera is not. My front camera is installed but not wired. Being essential is nice in that I am employed, but sucks because you non-essentials are getting more shit done and I still have to go into the office.

I also made a mount plate as a proof of concept to mount my scangauge and switchpros on. It worked like I hoped it would. Once I plan out my console the rest of the way, I am going to get each insert waterjet cut so it doesnt look like someone took a chisel to it.














Currently wired up to the unit are my amber spot aux lights, amber under hood service lights and the trigger for the reverse lights. I need to wire in my compressor, the reverse lights, dust lights, and the rest of my service lights under the truck. I also want to fabricate some mounts for my spare pair of lights for ditch lights.

Sean
 
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smokeysevin

is Ron Burgundy?
Dec 28, 2012
672
323
63
Houston
Tundra manual hub conversion axles are finally together. This was a huge pain to do, the aftermarket outer cages needed to be clearanced from the factory for the balls to fit. Going to probably pickup high angle outer boots, these are stock style aftermarket outers that came woth the aftermarket tacoma manual hub axles.

The inners are trailgear high angle boots and the inner tundra joints were trimmed down for clearance based on total chaos' instructions.

I tried using the jerk-press method on the stock tundra outer and apparently just have bitch arms because I couldn't the the clip to pop. I ended up just hacking up the stock cage and forcing the balls out.

I also ended up going through like 6 pairs of my hasty frito gloves because the palms kept ripping, good thing I stashed away some before they donated them to the hospitals.

Glad its finished.

Sean







 
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smokeysevin

is Ron Burgundy?
Dec 28, 2012
672
323
63
Houston
Hubs are on and everything is in except

One c clip on the drivers side
One lower ball joint bolt also on the drivers side
Two axle retainers on the front axles.

I also am missing the hardware to bolt in the front driveshaft. Then its just a matter of filling the front diff up and this tundra is officially 4wd.

Prior to installing the new wheel bearings, seals, and hubs I tossed the spindles into the blast cabinet to try and clean up my shitty welding (it didn't work). At least the seymore (butts) stainless paint stuck well.

I cleaned up the inside races of the spindles and installed new oe bearings and seals, then pressed in the new (aftermarket) manual hubs flanges.

The drivers side turned out great and went in fine, the passengers side did not. I had to replace on of the roller bearings in the passengers side hub because it was way too tight on the axle. Even after swapping it out, its still tighter than I would like. I may see if I can get a new oe hub to replace this one.

New total chaos uniball adapters, bolts, and misalignment spacers completed the spindle swap and bolted on to the camburg arms I had on the truck.


Sean

Spindles (Don't zoom in)


Wheelwell Shot


Fender Shot


Money Shot
 
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smokeysevin

is Ron Burgundy?
Dec 28, 2012
672
323
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Houston
Swapped out my stock battery terminals for these multi port ones from jims machineworx.

They are made really well but feel loose to me. The terminals can be twisted a bit even after I have really tightened them up which makes me nervous. Unless I can figure out a way to make them feel more secure, I will probably ditch them for something else. Its a shame because I like the option of pulling each source off separately.

I splurged and got myself a hydraulic crimper to do the dirty work, this one is good from 12-0/1. That plus some adhesive lined heat shrink made short work of the swap.

The winch is installed and wired as well as the switchpros. Tomorrow I am hoping to knock out the wiring for my onboard air system.

Sean


Crimper


Switchpros Mount


Battery Terminals
 
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the bodj

1st post pg805
Mar 4, 2010
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If you've got them on tight but can twist them a little, I wouldn't worry too much. They're aluminum, which is more slick so it'll allow some rotation. If the gap between the pinch bolt is touching, try filing away at the inside to make a bigger gap and tighten a bit more. Those look cool and pretty easy to make. I might have to make some...
 

smokeysevin

is Ron Burgundy?
Dec 28, 2012
672
323
63
Houston
If you've got them on tight but can twist them a little, I wouldn't worry too much. They're aluminum, which is more slick so it'll allow some rotation. If the gap between the pinch bolt is touching, try filing away at the inside to make a bigger gap and tighten a bit more. Those look cool and pretty easy to make. I might have to make some...
That is good to know, battery stuff makes me nervous.

5/8ths thick aluminum with a 1/4-20 socket head cap screw for the pinch bolt. The lug holes use a tapered reamer per sae.

I would have used 8mm hex head pinch bolt and 8mm and 10mm main lugs if I had made my own. 3/8th bolts are on the bigger side in yota land so all the cables had to be changed/modified. I spent more time making new terminal ends than I would have cutting out a terminal block.

Sean

Sent from my LM-G710 using Tapatalk
 
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smokeysevin

is Ron Burgundy?
Dec 28, 2012
672
323
63
Houston
Onboard air install

Parts Used:

Viair 6-Port Block (modified with 4 extra 1/8 npt ports)

Viair Sealed Pressure Switch 110/145psi

Viair Gauge

Viair Check Valve

MasterFlow MF1050 Tsunami Pump

1/4npt - 1/4 hose push lock adapters

Job:
Installed new manifold onto the compressor and wired compressor with pressure switch to switchpros POS 8.

I had a weird t-manifold with hoses and bs off it but since I am getting in the habit of trying to do things properly, I bought a manifold and redid it. The little tsunami pump is pretty well made for the price, the head casting is junk though. It comes with non-standard ports and the casting is really thin pot metal. The original outlet port was some weird non-standard 1/4ish nptish but it got a small stress crack in near the end of the threads. I don't think this is a huge deal since I am running a check valve on the system but I didn't want the main pressure port to be screwed into that spot.

Since I needed a new outlet port, I pulled the gauge off and drilled and tapped that for a 1/4 npt fitting. That got a 90 degree push lock fitting tossed on it which connected to the manifold. It worked out nicely for hose routing and I have a new gauge installed on the pressurized side of the check valve. If the crack on the other fitting leaks, it just means that the pump loses pressure while the check valve holds pressure in the tank/manifold/system. Eventually I will probably swap this pump out for a nice 100% DC Viair pump anyways.

Sean


2 1/8 npt ports added for pressure switch and gauge


4 1/8 npt ports added for pressure switch and gauge



Pressure switch


Assembled Manifold (not how I actually used it)


Now, we need a bracket to mount this onto the compressor. The stock Viair bracket is in black, the silver one is the one I made to mount the manifold to the compressor.



Who wants some head shots?


Pistons with valve relief, just like a LS, 2 valves. Its cute


Assembled compressor monstrosity, the shrader valves are temporary since I am missing my 1/8npt plugs.


Nestled in place on the fender, attached with 4, m8 rivnuts with vibration isolating grommets on the compressor. The open port will become another air chuck somewhere on the truck.


Tank line and sweet Power Core filter

Tank location


Tank and Bag solenoids


Temporary Bag Control/Pressure Monitoring Plate


Backside
 
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smokeysevin

is Ron Burgundy?
Dec 28, 2012
672
323
63
Houston
I took the truck out for a drive today after getting the front diff breather on and the front diff filled. It felt fine up until about 60mph when I started getting a pretty bad vibration that picked up with speed. The hubs were unlocked and the vibration didn't change in 2wd or 4wd so I don't think it is the front drive train. I also did not touch the rear at all.

From the last time I drove it to now the following has been changed/added from my 2wd Tundra parts.

OE Tacoma Manual hub Spindles
NEW OE KOYO Wheel Bearings/seals
Aftermarket Manual Hub Hubs w/ new wheel studs
OE Aisin Hub Selectors
Total Chaos uniball adapters and misalignment spacers
OE Tundra cut Inner CV and Axles
Trail Gear High Angle CV Boot
Aftermarket DTA Manual Hub Outer CV
4Runner front 7.5 Differential w/4.56 and Limited Slip
OE Tundra Front Driveshaft
1" Diff Drop

Things I have checked:

Lug TQ (no difference)
Hub Position (locked/unlocked = no difference)
Transfer Case Position (2wd/4wd no difference)

Observations:

The wear pattern on the tires was pretty bad to start with and needs to be replaced but the balance was reasonable up to about 80mph before it started to vibrate. With the extra weight over the front end, the sidewalls are noticeably more bulged. Tire pressure was fine.

Since I swapped spindles and misalignment spacers, the alignment could be off. I have not checked yet and I need to.

Is there anything I am missing that could be causing the vibration?

In better news, there are no new pops, groans, grinding sounds, or extra drag so while it may be slightly premature, I am calling this a victory.

Sean
 

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