Swapped my busted old duratracs for some new bfgs and decided to go up a size in the process. 4wp had them on sale so I got them ordered (took 4 days to arrive) then I waited 45 minutes after my appointment time before they started on my truck. 2 hours after I arrived they told me one of the 5 tires I ordered was missing and I would have to come back next week to get my spare...
I went from 285/75/16 to 295/75/16 and now it rubs even only being minimally taller and wider. I trimmed out the pinch weld on the cab which helped a little bit but it still needs more work.
It also rubs in the rear on the front corner of the bedside wheel well. Weirdly, the deaver g57s I have on there now put the wheel/tire slightly closer to the front of the wheel well than the stock springs did. I may shift the axle back to center it but I am worried about the slip yoke being over extended.
I also ordered a new washer fluid reservoir so I can move that out of the tire area and into the engine bay. I am picking that up later today and plan to throw it in this weekend.
Tapatalk seems to be screwing with the upload of my pictures, has anyone else had an issue with the quality being really crap?
Anyone who has worked on yota's knows that they really like to stuff the inner fenders and body mounts as close to the tires as possible. I have run 285/75/16 tires on 16x8 with 4.25" backspacing wheels for the last 15 years with no issues even at full lock and full compression nothing rubbed. I got ballsy and decided to see what it would take to fit 295/75/16 on the same wheels since they are only slightly larger.
Apparently I was only ever about 0.25" from rubbing on everything. It looks like I need wheels with a larger negative offset now to keep these rubbers from rubbing, I also need to cut the wheelwell out and tub the front of the cab. As it sits now, it is too close for comfort. When I do cut it, I will throw a 2x4 onto the wheel so it will clear 35"s in the future.
I have been running the winters shifter on my truck for the last 3ish months without major issue. The mounting bracket that holds the cable onto the trans pan has incorrect bolt spacing so it took a little rework but I used the rest of the kit without much fuss.
When I went to install the front driveshaft I fount that this was clearly made for a different route than what the tundra uses. With the factory winters shift lever, the entire cable assembly was in the way of the front driveshaft. Initially, I bent the winters lever but it cracked even with a very minor bend. To fix that, I took the stock tundra shift lever on the transmission and cut the indexing plate off the back, then welded on a piece of 3/16" steel which I drilled for the winters shift pin. Once I was happy that the trans still shifted gears and lined up with the gates, I welded the pin on and ground the back side flush for clearance. I then bent the arm and set the spacing on the lever to clear the edge of the trans pan.
After spending close to $500 on wire sleeves (3x100' rolls from wirecare) to make sure I didn't create a tinder box. I finally got around to running wires for my service/rock lights, air compressor, and winch. I spent 3ish days cutting, routing, and then disassembling to sleeve the wires. The sleeving process was frustrating and I managed to wear through a pair of mechanics wear gloves while playing with the mesh sleeve. I still need to get a few wire clips to clean up the route a little more but I am fairly happy with how it has turned out. All the cables are routed and secured away from any moving or hot parts. I used marine grade tinned copper wire for everything.
Sleeved cables for the service lights, air compressor, and under hood service/running lights
Switchpros mounting position.
Terminal block for the switchpros, I still have some cleanup to do here but I am waiting on cable to do it properly. I am also planning to replace the stock battery hold down.
Sleeved winch wiring, I also need to hookup the front camera.
Terminal blocks for service lights mounted to existing holes in the C framerail
Forward engine/suspension service lights.
Drivers side engine service light
Rear axle, cantilever, air control service light. The air hose routing is also temporary.
Terminal blocks for the service lights inside the frame rail.
With the new bigger tires, the stock location of the tundra washer fluid bottle was begging for a tire to get pushed into it. I picked up a Dorman 603001 universal bottle from vatozone for less than $10 and hung it off the inner fender. I mounted the stock yota pump by drilling out the universal nipple on the bottom of the tank to 0.825"ish and fitting the stock yota grommet and pump to the bottom. From there, I just routed the stock hose and wires back into the engine bay and plugged it in. Works like stock but the capacity is only about half what the oe tank was.
Trimmed Stock inner fenders
Donaldson Power Core dry filter and volant prefilter with bottle in position.
10ish years ago I installed 2 strips of low profile unistrut on the floor of the bed to hold a spare tire mount. It worked pretty well but the eye bolts I could find that fit the rack were 1/4-20 and bent really easily if you applied any side load at all. I had been planning to swap them out to something stronger for a while and finally came across the airline style l-track on us cargo control so I pulled the trigger on them. I got 4 x 6' sticks and a bunch of quick lock rings. I also saw that they have a cool, double spot bolt down adapter which would let me hard bolt things like gas can racks or coolers to the bed floor. I need to yank up the unistrut and figure out where I am going to put the other 2 sticks since the tundra frame has a taper to it.