Another Toyota, on a Ranger site? This I have to see... (01 Tundra boring "build")

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DP_Ranger

Senior Member
Mar 13, 2010
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dana point
The manifold is a direct swap I assume? I’ve been in the tundra game for 7 years now and have never heard of anyone swapping to the 05/06 intake manifolds. What is the difference and advantage?
 

smokeysevin

is Ron Burgundy?
Dec 28, 2012
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With how the 01 throttle body with adapter fits, the upper radiator hose rubs. This is not an issue on the 03/04 models because they don't use the same weird throttle body. Not sure precisely I am going to fix this but I have a few options.

1) cut the hose and try and fit a section of aluminum or stainless tube in its place. That may give enough clearance not to rub.

2) extend the factory water log closer to the fan. I don't want to do that just in case the fan rubs.

3) modify the crossover tube to come up next to the throttle body rather than in front. Requires welding and costs money.

4) add a 45 degree elbow to the silicone hose to kink it around the throttle body. This makes the most sense to me as of now. I need to measure the tube to find out if it will work though.

Sean




 

smokeysevin

is Ron Burgundy?
Dec 28, 2012
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Houston
The manifold is a direct swap I assume? I’ve been in the tundra game for 7 years now and have never heard of anyone swapping to the 05/06 intake manifolds. What is the difference and advantage?
For the 03/04 its pretty much a bolt on, you have to flip the throttle body over but that's about it. The 00-02 (like mine) requires an adapter or redrilling the bolt holes on the TB. The adapter I made causes the bottom of the throttle body to pinch the upper radiator hose. I am still trying to figure out what to do about that.

As far as advantage, supposedly it helps low end mostly. There is a vacuum actuated runner diverter system in it, when they are open the runners are about half as long as the metal ones, when they are closed, they are the same length. The 05/06 ecu controls it but anyone I know who has done the swap on the 03/04 just disables the valves and loops the line so its not controlled it just runs off the manifold vacuum.

I will happily do some testing once I get it squared away.

Sean
 
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smokeysevin

is Ron Burgundy?
Dec 28, 2012
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Wires for the throttle motor were hitting the water crossover pipe as was the throttle body coolant thermostat elbow. I had bypassed the cooling lines to the throttle body 10ish years ago so I just removed the elbow which gave me the extra clearance I needed to let the manifold sit flush.

The (modified) factory throttle body cooling hose routing was also fouling on the throttle motor so I stole some venair 1/2" silicone heater hose I had from my stash of jetski cooling lines and made a replacement. I think the horizontal leg is a little bit too long as it sits now but I will double check before starting it up. It clears the fan by a few inches but I would like it to be a little tighter.

I placed an order for some 1.5" silicone elbows and alumium bends last night from verocious motorsports hopefully they will show up quickly so I can put this mess to bed.

All I can say so far is that this better be a sizeable increase in power/driveability of I am going to be pissed for having spent this much time and ~$500 on it so far.

EDIT: I ordered the water crossover pipe from a 2000 gs400 and will be trying that out to add the clearance I need. (https://www.lexuspartsnow.com/parts/lexus-joint-water-by-pass-front~16355-50070.html) It looks like it will swap but I will confirm when it gets here later this week.

Sean
















 
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smokeysevin

is Ron Burgundy?
Dec 28, 2012
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Lexus GS400 1uz Water Log Vs Tundra 2uz Water Log

It looks like everything will clear with the exception of the water bypass fitting on the manifold. The lexus one is lower down and tilted more horizontally which means the hose hits. The back side of the manifold where the fitting is pressed in is to shallow to drill and tap so I think I am just going to slip a section of hose on it and cap it, then drill and tap the upper portion of the manifold for a 1/4" NPT fitting and run the 1/2" hose directly from the other fitting that leads from the oil cooler to the new fitting. There is more than enough room to run it up like that.

The parts from verocious motorsports have not shipped yet since one of the couplers was backordered. I picked up a stock upper rad hose but the bend is too long so I am still stuck until the aftermarket goodies show up later next week.

Sean


GS on left, Tundra on right


GS on left, Tundra on right. note the bypass fitting on the rear of each bridge.


GS Bridge on Tundra


Hose Nipple Locations Relative to Eachother


Clearance with Manifold In Place


Fan Offset,Throttle Body Inlet Tube is Close to the Shroud Since the TB is 3/4" Closer to the Rad Now.


New Bypass Port Location
 
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smokeysevin

is Ron Burgundy?
Dec 28, 2012
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I Finally have my parts to wrap up my install. I used the stock replacement HPS upper hose (cut down), a tight radius 90 degree aluminum bend, and a 1.5" 90 degree silicone bend. The ends of the aluminum were deburred and bead rolled.

I still need to route the vacuum hoses correctly, install the intake, and refill the radiator. Before that though, I am going to swap my transfer case back for a replacement J shift. I installed a set of double detent springs and upgraded shifter seat from marlin crawler and modified the shift lever to be (approximately) straight up and down. The stock parts were completely destroyed.

For anyone wondering about the shifter part install, I removed the stock insert and seal. I then looked at the insert in confusion before sanding it down. You do not need to do that, it slip in if you aren't an idiot. I don't have a picture but you roll it around the pins. You don't snap it past the pins like I tried to do. I put a bead of black rtv under the new insert but I don't think its needed. I capped the rebuilt shifter off with a fresh boot and snap ring.

I also replaced both drive flanges from the front driveshaft with new spicer flanges and u joints. The transmission output shaft also got a new seal before I throw the replacement transfer case on.

Sean


Hose routing, trimmed vibrant 1.5" 90, into aluminum 1.5" 90, into stock trimmed hose.


Alternate view


Stock shifter base, it was completely disintegrated


Crusty and completely Useless


When I pressed the stock u-joints out, some of the cap came with it. I don't remember where the front driveshaft came from but it was pretty crusty.


I was able to source replacement parts from Fort Wayne Clutch


Old parts cleaned up, new parts pressed in
 

sc610

Senior Member
Jan 28, 2011
1,059
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Santa Cruz
How do you shift the stock tcase? Did you also swap in the 4x4 electronics?

Sent from my SM-G892U using Tapatalk
 

smokeysevin

is Ron Burgundy?
Dec 28, 2012
600
247
43
Houston
How do you shift the stock tcase? Did you also swap in the 4x4 electronics?

Sent from my SM-G892U using Tapatalk
I swapped a J shift when I did this the first time, so no electronics. When I installed the first J shift, I also swapped to a cable operated twin stick. After driving it for a few months, the case started acting up and it ate up the 2/4wd syncro. I don't know exactly what caused it, but something caused it to try and shift into 4wd on the highway. It probably wouldn't have been an issue if the hubs were locked but since I have manual hubs, the front driveshaft was spinning at 0 rpm and the rear was at highway speed.

I swapped a stock tundra case into the truck that I had on a shelf. When I installed it (temporarily) I locked it into 2wd and pulled the front driveshaft off since the case did not have an actuator on it.

I just got finished installing a replacement J shift case but this time I just modified the stock shifter setup.

As far as the truck knows, its still a 2wd non abs 01 Tundra.

Sean
 

smokeysevin

is Ron Burgundy?
Dec 28, 2012
600
247
43
Houston
I got started fabricating my replacement console yesterday, it mounts to the floor of the truck by the inserts used to hold the trans shifter boot in place.

I still have some work to do to figure out what the rest will look like but I put provisions for my switchpros unit, usb/12v chargers, and will be adding my cupholders onto the front. I also need to add my air pressure gauges and switches.

The rear will have some storage probably in the form of an ammo can. As for now, I am going to skin the sides with mdf/plywood with a layer of fiberglass on the outside so the corners aren't a hazard to the occupants.

Sean






















 

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