Basic Valving Theory

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FasterNU

Mega Member
Jun 28, 2006
7,138
551
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San Diego
if you dont have enough preload in the pack from it being worn out, its not going to want to pull that shock down.
I was going to say the same thing... wonder if pack is tired. Even then though... there is a point when the leafs start separating.. where you ain't got shit for spring force.

And, I'm all about trying different valving. To me, that's the ONLY way to know you have it the best you can get it. I'd get some .006's and have at it.

Oh, and PS. This conversation is just reminding me of my really old conversations with friends .... of why I wanted to move to a 3 or 4 link on my second build.
 

84projectford

Senior Member
Sep 8, 2010
779
225
43
Phoenix Az
I was going to say the same thing... wonder if pack is tired. Even then though... there is a point when the leafs start separating.. where you ain't got shit for spring force.

And, I'm all about trying different valving. To me, that's the ONLY way to know you have it the best you can get it. I'd get some .006's and have at it.

Oh, and PS. This conversation is just reminding me of my really old conversations with friends .... of why I wanted to move to a 3 or 4 link on my second build.
yup, it would just suck when he puts all this time in on valving, finds his pack is lacking preload (lost arch as well) and once rebuilt, the truck starts taking him to a rodeo.
 
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Turtle Bite

member
Nov 3, 2018
22
4
3
West Richland, WA
yup, it would just suck when he puts all this time in on valving, finds his pack is lacking preload (lost arch as well) and once rebuilt, the truck starts taking him to a rodeo.
In my case the springs are basically brand new- about 200 miles on them. I had old F31's on before that were sacked out- but I bought brand new G50's. They raised the truck several inches in the back and it is WAY better, and changing from the initial .010/.010 valving helped a ton too, but I am trying to get every last bit. I would love to do a 4 link, but the reality is it would take me 5 years to finish.

I couldnt find .006" shims anywhere from FOA or King, are you guys buying them on McMaster-Carr or something? I guess I could buy some of the other ones and drill out the ID to 5/8".
 

Turtle Bite

member
Nov 3, 2018
22
4
3
West Richland, WA
I ended up ordering both bypass valves with bleed holes, and heavy/ light bypass valve springs. Took a couple calls to King and Poly Performance to be sure I had the right part numbers. For the benefit of anyone else searching, and so I can remember them someday, these are for King 2.5" Prerunner bypasses:

Bypass Valves, #63 on the King parts diagram:
25202-001 (Nylon, no holes)
25202-002 (Steel, no holes)
25202-003 (Nylon, 1 hole) $7.80 Each

Bypass Valve Springs, #64 on the King Parts diagram:
CS2501 (Light)
CS2502 (Medium)
CS2503 (Heavy) $8.00 Each
 

FasterNU

Mega Member
Jun 28, 2006
7,138
551
113
San Diego
Great info, thanks!!!

Been thinking about tinkering with some of those free bleed poppets and some lighter springs.

I assume the 2.5 shit should cross over to the SAW and other brands?
 

Turtle Bite

member
Nov 3, 2018
22
4
3
West Richland, WA
Great info, thanks!!!

Been thinking about tinkering with some of those free bleed poppets and some lighter springs.

I assume the 2.5 shit should cross over to the SAW and other brands?
King said they are not the same as bypass valves on 3.0s, which were available with two bleed holes. I would be suprised if they worked between brands, but if the OD and o-ring are the same it would probably work.
 

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