Best way to build a 1st Gen Tacoma with long travel

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desert_steve

Senior Member
Oct 21, 2007
2,514
78
48
phelan, ca
Agreed, buy a BTF kit, TC kit, or burg kit (and the axles they offer to go with it to retain 4x4).

The front kits for the 1st gen tacoma and 4runners are pretty easy to install and require no welding if youre just running a coilover in the stock coil bucket. TC does (or did) offer a fairly simple tube that got 1 end welded to the frame, and the other end bolted to the top of the stock coil bucket if you want to run a bypass as well. Maybe BTF and/or the burg offer them too? IMO just run the c/o and if you think you need more shock down the road you can add the bypass... in the meantime I'd save the money from doing the front bypass and use that money to do deavers and a simple bedcage to get the rear to keep up with the front.

Budget at least $5k for ^^^. Keep your eye on CL and other classifieds to keep the cost down. Dont forget new tires, regearing the front/rear diffs, a locker if you dont already have the e-locker (and if you do, do the "grey wire mod" or whatever its called), maybe some kind of front bumper, a super siKkKkkKKK led light bar... and thats just to get you started.

Now, if youre planning on some super wazoo linked, LS powered beast, just save the coin and skip all of that shit I listed and go straight to the $40k, 3 year build .
 
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dsrtrcr01

Well-known member
Jan 31, 2005
4,327
753
113
You would know better then us if you need a locked front also. Depends on how much mud, rock crawling and that stuff you do. If you re gear then you need to regear front and back to match. Front locker is nice but a rear locker and non locked front will get you a lot of places.
 

dose

Junior Member
Jan 4, 2018
270
472
63
Mammoth Lakes CA
I like the look and just everything about them. It’s more for a daily driver and hunting and going down to Utah. I want a good set up but I don’t need to be 40k deep. I’m a heavy equipment mechanic and I do almost all of the welding for my company so I have access to a lot of tools and equipment. I was looking to do it myself cuase to me that’s half the fun is building something like that. It’s not fun for me to pay someone to work on my truck. I just wanna know the specs on stuff and why it is that way and what’s the best way. Or even what you need to look for when your deciding how to set it up. And just parts wise what to use I have a lot of questions to figure out before I can start my set up so anything helps! Just trying to soak up some knowledge I know I’m not your typical guy with deep pockets to just throw that kinda money at it right now. I have the tools and the time and equipment just need some know how. But I appreciate the input on the feed !
This is how you should of started your post. Now we know what you want and your capability's

DD/hunting rig
lower budget to start out
Have tools and are mechanicly inclined
Willing to do the work yourself
Looking to get into off-roading.

I recommend upper TC arm, stock length so doesn't require fiberglass fenders,
king coilovers front, don't cheap out, shocks are probably the most important thing
King bypass rear, again, Don't cheap out,
swap your load leaf sping for a thin one or mini pack,
wire your elocker to a switch, now you can be 2wd locked
33x10.5 tires, no need to re-gear

this setup will be very capable and you can hit small jumps and whoops, still drive to work and hunt
and you can decide if you want to snowball from there

please don't put on a snorkel or 50" lightbar over the windshield
 
Last edited:

Turboyota

Senior Member
Mar 29, 2017
4,188
3,228
113
Yucaipa
This is how you should of started your post. Now we know you want and your capability's

DD/hunting rig
lower budget to start out
Have tools and are mechanicly inclined
Willing to do the work yourself
Looking to get into off-roading.

I recommend upper TC arm, stock length so doesn't require fiberglass fenders,
king coilovers front, don't cheap out, shocks are probably the most important thing
King bypass rear, again, Don't cheap out,
swap your load leaf sping for a thin one or mini pack,
wire your elocker to a switch, now you can be 2wd locked
33x10.5 tires, no need to re-gear

this setup will be very capable and you can hit small jumps and whoops, still drive to work and hunt
and you can decide if you want to snowball from there

please don't put on a snorkel or 50" lightbar over the windshield
^^^Almost totally Agreed with [mention]dose [/mention] (Except for the leaf springs***)

King 2.5” front Coilovers, don’t bother with 2.0’s

Total Chaos or BTF fabrication upper uniball arm

***leaf springs: I did the overload leaf delete/Deaver Spring mini-pack swap on my parent’s 2002 Tacoma Double cab. It definitely rides better than stock, but spend an extra $500 and get Deaver F67 or F55 springs, Total Chaos 9” or 12” shackles, and a RuffStuff leaf spring hanger kit. Deaver 62” leaf springs provide a much more supple, smooth ride and like an extra 8-9” of wheel travel. Totally worth the added expense.
 

Gamble_23

member
Jul 31, 2020
7
2
3
Castle Rock, Washington
I appreciate the input guys it’s a big help when you change out upper A-arms do you need to switch over to fiberglass fenders which I’m not opposed to and do you guys keep like the stock sway bar or do you end up order a different one and what are you recommending to swap cv axels out with for a replacement
 
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partybarge_pilot

Uno mas Cervesa!
May 14, 2004
12,151
3,676
113
Easton, KS
Sway bars are a matter of personal preference. It will be smoother off road without one. It will stay more level on the street with one but won't actually handle any better. It's just a matter of getting used to the gangster lean.

If you do keep one on it, I would recommend getting a quick disconnect link for it.
 

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