partybarge_pilot
Uno mas Cervesa!
I would probably start by drilling bleed holes in the piston and shimming it like a truck.
Bleed shims on Fox 2.5
- Thread starter dbatman
- Start date
mine is a 2016 . I put Eibach springs on it. still rode like crap most of the time. thought I had wasted money on the springs. decided to try a valving change on the rear. Thats when I found out haw messed up the shocks were. Each was about 2/3 full of oil , IFP was jammed tight into bottom of the res. , and ridiculous amounts of shims on compression. I decided that since I had to get into them I would start from scratch and use just standard FOX shim stacks. I put a 45 comp stack in front and and was impressed how much smoother it made it. 50/50 seemed good to start for the rear. Put those in and for the first time I could actually feel the rear move up and down.
My quest is to try and get it more compliant on stutter bumps in the front. If the bleed shim helps , I will do the same to rear if I can find the shims. From some of the comments on here , I guess 50/50 valving is the sign of a noob. Tomorrow rear gets changed to 50/40. Front is 45/30 plus the bleed shim added at bottom of compression stack.
Thursday / Friday going to see what I have . Will try a local area first and if that goes well , Johnson Valley
Sorry for being so long winded.
partybarge_pilot
Uno mas Cervesa!
Even stacks are only seen on things with super high spring rates and limited travel.
But yes, most of your issues are bleed related. A flexy rate plate is in your future.
But yes, most of your issues are bleed related. A flexy rate plate is in your future.
Flexy rate plates are the shit. Make my rear end function decently even with minimal travel and skinny shocks.
Have not heard about this before. So do I take one of my larger shims and replace the monster thick washer that is currently on there ? Or can I use a large shim and just space it away from the large washer using small diameter shims ?
The bleed shims that I am using have 4 single small notches in them. I cannot find them anywhere. Just the ones that have the double notches.
Shocks are all done 50/40 rear 45/30 front w/ bleed shim . Time to go out and play.
The bleed shims that I am using have 4 single small notches in them. I cannot find them anywhere. Just the ones that have the double notches.
Shocks are all done 50/40 rear 45/30 front w/ bleed shim . Time to go out and play.
partybarge_pilot
Uno mas Cervesa!
DO you have a pic of the stacks on the piston? How much space between the top out washer and the comp stack?
And no you cannot remove the top out washer. Your stack does need a certain amount of separation from it or it will be very harsh on big hits.
And no you cannot remove the top out washer. Your stack does need a certain amount of separation from it or it will be very harsh on big hits.
Right now there is a .020 shim separating the stack from the big thick washer ( top out washer - per FOX chart) .
No pics - it is all together again. I thank you for your input .
partybarge_pilot
Uno mas Cervesa!
Typical Fox. Did it have to washers on top of the reb stack? I usually take one of those and put it between the comp stack and the top out washer. Otherwise there isn't enough room for the comp shims to move and the high speed gets way harsh. Ironically, going to a lighter shim stack decreases clearance and makes the problem worse.
One washer on top of rebound stack.
The last trip out , the car was working the best it ever has been. The rear felt like it might need something firmer. It never bottomed , just felt a tad soft .Want to try 60/50 there.
Do you think 2x .02 is too much for the compression stack. Give it more room to flex.
I m sure at some point I will have to take them apart, since I doubt he know how. I will def make them more traditional if that is possible. At least I semi-know how to work with the rate plate stuff.
Here is his GAYZR 1000 when I put a CageWerx cage on it.
Here is his GAYZR 1000 when I put a CageWerx cage on it.
