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yltaco05

Senior Member
Jan 18, 2006
1,545
345
83
Fullerton, CA
Have you thought about eliminating the c clip for the stub axle. I did mine and haven’t had an issue yet.
I said in a text to you but I’ll repeat it here for everyone else.

I have thought about it. I did it on my explorer when I d44 swapped it. I remember dicking with different springs and welding the cap multiple times before getting it dialed in. I was hoping to not have to do that again and I can’t remember what I ended up with. I also only went that route because the locker I went with wouldn’t allow the clip to be installed. This time I went with an oem locker that does allow the clip to be used so I planned to use it.

At this point I will entertain the idea to run no clip as it would allow me to continue progress. However there are other things i can do so I will work on those first. Travis said he will grab a stub axle from storage this weekend and get it to me next week so I should be good to go. We will see.


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yltaco05

Senior Member
Jan 18, 2006
1,545
345
83
Fullerton, CA
Forgot to update the other day.

Started to work on the shocks. Opened up the bypasses and found a .020 comp stack and .008 rebound stack, exactly what I was hoping for. Theres a .875 x .060 and 1.25 x .155 at the bottom of the comp stack and a .875 x .318 at the top of the rebound stack. There also was a .875 long droop limit spacer and one free bleed that was not tapped. Didn’t measure it but it was tiny.

Coilovers had no valving, as expected, and two free bleeds plugged. There was a third cap screw that fell out of somewhere, not expected lol. Barge and turdblo spec’d my valving as follows:

Comp (from closest to piston):
1.65 x .012
1.50 x .012
1.35 x .012
1.20 x .012
1.05 x .012
0.90 x .012
0.90 x .035
0.90 x .035
1.54 x .020

Rebound is a .008 stack with a 0.90 x .105 shim before the nut. I also left the one bleed open.

Oh I also got my stub axle installed in the third member.


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yltaco05

Senior Member
Jan 18, 2006
1,545
345
83
Fullerton, CA
Forgot to add that the coilovers had a .500 limit spacer. So I swapped that into the bypass to get a little more droop. Don’t have the tools to properly shorten the spacer so this will do for now. I think I’m going to leave the spacer out all together though as I needed a bit more length to get the springs on without the need of a compressor. I need at least a .375 spacer in the bypass to keep the piston above the bypass tube.


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yltaco05

Senior Member
Jan 18, 2006
1,545
345
83
Fullerton, CA
SO, I was offered a trade and not are if its the right move. I have a 110w radio posted on offer up. Guy offered to trade a Howe built ford steering box plumbed for ram assist. think its worth it? 1) has the ports for sure with AN caps on the ports. 2) its painted grey. no other signs of work performed, guy doesn't have spec sheet. says her bought it from someone for $1400.... i call bullshit or he got screwed cause my research shows you can buy a box from howe for $1100, so why buy it from someone for more than that? but it also looks like companies offer remained boxes with ports for ram assist for $350. Id honestly say thats what he has, pics look just like pics desolate has on their website for this. besides all that, I have no idea if I'm going to go hydro assist. I want to, but id go swing first then hydro, and its not in the finances right now.

214708


214709
 

Bertismyname

member
Oct 1, 2018
888
300
63
San Diego
No. And no.

Hydro assist taps are easy to add. YouTube hydro assist If that's all you're after. Most rebuilders have a mark. That box looks way too clean to have been on a truck or sitting in a garage.
 

yltaco05

Senior Member
Jan 18, 2006
1,545
345
83
Fullerton, CA
its fresh for sure, he said it hasn't been ran since the build. and yes i know that just adding the ports is "easy". but for $350 i can have one rebuilt and ported, worth it, so no need to do it myself.
 

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