Chair-Runner (Honcho) - Gen 1 Taco

Welcome to DezertRangers
Join the community. Register today for all the benefits of membership.
Register

J4Roe

Chair Donkey
Sep 23, 2020
237
248
43
Phoenix
Don't you love fitting those diagonals in when the horizontal tube can't be removed. FUN FUN FUN
Yea so what is the trick because I wanted to kill myself after fucking up the first diagonal twice?! I go from too long to get it in there and then once I get it to go in, it's 3/16 short. I haven't tacked anything so the tubes are just sitting in there so some of the gaps look kind of big. One or two gaps are pretty big. Nothing a big mig dong can't fill...

The last one I did was the passenger side lower and it fits and looks like it fits wayyyyy better than the other 3. #3 was decent too. The first one was actually attempt number 3 and then the second one I did was P side upper and it came out like absolute dog shit and I'm still beating my brain hourly if I want to redo it. I think one of the gaps is ginormous but I think it's do-able... I don't know. I spent waaaayyyy too much time doing those 4 diagonals. Those and the roof diagonals were definitely by far the hardest to do. Very tedious. To the contrary, the A to B floor tube with double 90 degree notches was pry the easiest. The passenger side I did in about 35 minutes from cutting the stick to notch to fit.

#FUCKDIAGONALS

Joe
 
Last edited:

J4Roe

Chair Donkey
Sep 23, 2020
237
248
43
Phoenix
What i have done it cut the pointed piece off on the notch and then put it back on when the tube is finally fit in place. You'll get a gap in the tube the width of cutoff wheel so easy to get full penetration.
Ok. Good to know. Thanks brother.
 

J4Roe

Chair Donkey
Sep 23, 2020
237
248
43
Phoenix
BUMP!

Long time no talk DR. Soon after my last update with the truck I purchased a boat and subsequently the truck took a 4 or 5 month back seat ride in life. I worked endlessly, well over 100+ man hours to get this center console boat up to my standards and sea worthy enough to not die 20 miles out in the Sea of Cortez. After a month or two of work we started our first lake tests in preparation for our first trip out on the Sea of Cortez. Lake tests went well and finally after 3 months we were able to get out on the Sea of Cortez for our first fishing trip August 28th. After addressing a few last needed fixes we got the boat down to the SOC one more time a couple of weeks ago in late September. Unfortunately, both trips so far we have struck out on the big SUPER GROUPER. The learning curve is steep but we're having fun.




Now, by this point you're pry saying, yea Joe but who gives a fuck, this is a truck forum. And to that I'd say, fucking A right doggy. On to the truck we go. It finally started cooling off here in Phoenix which allowed a little motivation to start to creep into my brain. It's been almost a year since I've driven this truck and aside from the 11 months following my spinal cord injury, it's been the longest amount of time not driving the truck in a decade. I definitely want to get this done sooner than later and enjoy the truck this "season".

I left off with needing to start the A and B floor crossover tubes. The A crossover was done one day in June intermittently between boat tasks when I was waiting for parts to arrive. Apparently in my hiatus from metal working I completely forgot how TF to add and subtract and or had my head completely up my ass but I fucked up and it came out about half an inch to 3/4" too short. Fuck!!! I didn't want to waste 45" or whatever of DOM tubing so I decided to cut and sleeve it. I figured it's somewhat acceptable and it's just the floor tube. Pry not as consequential to the entire strength of the cage down there. Or at least that was my thinking. I french fucked it into the floor for max style points. The B crossover was actually cut and notched before my hiatus but needed a little notch cleanup to slide into place.



Now that those tubes were in place it was time to move on to seat mounting and placement. At this point I had major design block in my brain. Although the seat mounts are under the seat and not too visible I didn't want some janky looking seat mount. I figured that I've done a pretty good job up until now to start half assing things. I proceeded to do what I always do at this stage. Google image search and go through all of your guys threads to hijack ideas. The issue I was having with this seat mount problem is that I'm pretty short. I also wanted the seats to be on sliders. So these two things made it a little harder than the standard tabs off of floor tubes for fixed position seat mounts. If I went this route the tabs would have needed to have been YYYYUUUUUUGE. They would have looked ugly and unprofessional. Or at least SEMI PRO. What I concluded with was @FasterNU Double A RON design. I really liked it, it looked good and overall seemed to fit the design of my cage and filled that floor space well.








I'd like your guys opinion on how I intend to mount the sliders to the seat tubes. I purposely made the spacing of the seat tubes 14 3/8" so that the slider sits directly on the center of the 1.5" tube. I plan to mount the slider on top of the center of the tube with weld nuts or nutzerts. My question is more towards safety. Is this considered a decent mounting decision or ill advised??? I figured the weld washer is welded into the cage so the grade 8 bolt should be pretty secure. I worry more about the sliders themselves. They are for street application and appear fairly cheap. I'd really like the sliders for accessibility to the back and to allow my girlfriend to be able to drive the truck as well.

Only other question I have before I start to move on in the next few days is if I still need/want to run the B harness tube directly behind the seats????????????? I see that it is also acceptable to go straight back to the C horizontal under the back window. Now that we have the Sequoia I doubt we'll have the dog back there now for any meaningful desert runs so that negates the necessity for the B harness tube. Jury is still out on that. I think the next two tubes I will tackle will be side impact/anti intrusion. There's enough room between the seat and door panel where tube originates by shoulder/arm pit area but middle way to low on the tube it's going to impact the door handle/arm rest and lower in the tube the door speaker appears to be in the way where it terminates to the A floor junction. I was really hoping to keep the sound system. Might have to ditch the stock door panels and go to a sheet metal design with relocated speaker position to make this happen.

Thanks again for all of the support and suggestions or help with everything and if you made it to this point in the post you truly are a good person! LOL

- Joe
 

jonsangel

Senior Member
Apr 13, 2009
1,444
472
83
Los Angeles
I would stay away from a rivet nut insert for this application. I think you'd be better off with a self-clinching nut from the back side. If you want to do a weld nut route I would do a bung which will have more weld area. Ideally you would weld in a crush tube and through bolt it.

Seems like you would have too much slack/would have to make the harness uncomfortably tight if you went all the way back to the C pillar. You can just run a cantilevered bar for that right behind the seat
 
  • Like
Reactions: J4Roe

J4Roe

Chair Donkey
Sep 23, 2020
237
248
43
Phoenix
I would stay away from a rivet nut insert for this application. I think you'd be better off with a self-clinching nut from the back side. If you want to do a weld nut route I would do a bung which will have more weld area. Ideally you would weld in a crush tube and through bolt it.

Seems like you would have too much slack/would have to make the harness uncomfortably tight if you went all the way back to the C pillar. You can just run a cantilevered bar for that right behind the seat
Something like this or a bung that you would use for shock mounts?


I could also do the through bolt too. I like that.
 

J4Roe

Chair Donkey
Sep 23, 2020
237
248
43
Phoenix
I got lost in your super long post. What are the sideways tubes for?
It’s just seat mounts don’t overthink it
Harness lap mount. They're not finished yet. They will get capped and through bolt. Or threaded weld washers. Not sure yet.
 

Latest posts

Today's birthdays

New Threads

New Classifieds

latest desert trips

Member Builds