Engine cage design tips

Welcome to DezertRangers
Join the community. Register today for all the benefits of membership.
Register

breynolds710

Junior Member
Oct 4, 2016
51
6
8
Good discussion for sure. I’m not willing to give up some creature comforts for a proper load path at the moment so it’ll be staying how it is for now.

On the same subject, is this tube necessary? The rear engine tube will be removable btw so I can take the motor out, just haven’t installed the interlocking tube clamps yet.
 

Travisfab

Moderator
Staff member
Aug 21, 2003
20,022
243
63
San Diego
Whats your opinion on trying to make the bump stop area a load path through the cage? Looks like all 3 of your tubes hitting the top of the frame rail could land in the same spot if you weren't concerned about landing the 2 on the bumpstop. I'm in a similar dilemma with mine right now. I've seen countless trucks with the can welded just welded to the frame, and that's it.
 

breynolds710

Junior Member
Oct 4, 2016
51
6
8
Whats your opinion on trying to make the bump stop area a load path through the cage? Looks like all 3 of your tubes hitting the top of the frame rail could land in the same spot if you weren't concerned about landing the 2 on the bumpstop. I'm in a similar dilemma with mine right now. I've seen countless trucks with the can welded just welded to the frame, and that's it.
Yeah they could have landed in the same spot, thought about that too. I guess I decided to run them to the bump area to transfer the load into the chassis, that way if something real bad happens, the bump will rip off the frame before it bends the frame. Probably more critical to build it that way on frames that aren’t boxed or plated since there is a higher chance of tweaking the frame if the bump bottoms out hard. From the firewall forward, my frame is 2x3 3/16 box tubing (heavy as fuck).

Thinking about it more, I could have tied all 3 tubes together then run some extra tubes in to support the bump area. See attached. My engine bay is already going to be pretty packed with crap so the less tubes the better.



I also could have put a bend in the tube closest to the firewall to meet the other 2 at the bump area but then I thought it would be good to support the splice I made from the stock frame to the new frame sooo I dunno.

Looking at my fantabulous paint rendering, I’m considering welding in a plate where the turquoise trapezoid is to strengthen the body/cage attachment points. Ideas? I didn’t plate the cab to the cage where the cage pokes through so I could probably use another tie in point.
 

85yota

TT Motorsports
Nov 18, 2004
9,248
256
83
Phoenix, AZ
What you have there originally is plenty and more than a lot of trucks I have seen. My cage is very similar to yours with just a single downbar from shock mounts. No issues with it yet besides a half welded tube cracked. Which i fully welded once motor was removed.
 

sirhk100

Racer
Feb 24, 2003
16,232
146
63
Las Vegas
Agreed, keep going with what you have. It's going to be fine.

BTW, the "A" on our race truck isn't tied to the frame, where they hit the dash bar I have tubes going forward that form the engine cage basically. Our roof has seen the ground 3 times total, 2 of them were pretty violent hits from what I was told, I wasn't in it for any of those adventures. I've put a straight edge on all of tube cab cage tubes, they're all straight. Couple of them do visually look bent but I think it's the wrinkled cab playing tricks on the eye cause the straight edge says otherwise. Point being, ours hasn't bent...
 

breynolds710

Junior Member
Oct 4, 2016
51
6
8
Finally coated, gonna let it dry for a couple days then re assemble. Decided to TIG the shock mounts in, pretty fun actually. Got a lot of seat time in. Tons of respect for dudes that can TIG like a robot



 

Latest posts

Today's birthdays

New Threads

New Classifieds

latest desert trips

Member Builds