Little Bird

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littlebird

member
Feb 26, 2019
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NY
Mulled it over more and brought out the scale. Here’s the weight comparison for anyone who needs a rear and wants to stay budget friendly.

The below weights are just for the gears and housing, that is, no axles, hubs, snouts, etc.

Stock 9” w/ rear truss: 150 ibs

Sterling 10.25: 225 ibs

Ruff stuff housing, no truss: 180 ibs


No as bad as I thought and much cheaper.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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themoneypit

member
Jul 30, 2018
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Missouri
I like it. I see no issues with the sterling/14 bolt options in a full size personally. A bit heavy and lacking the bling factor? Well yeah, but stock full-floater versions are leagues above the average junkyard 9 inch in strength.

I probably wouldn't put one in a mini truck though.
 

marcytech

Mega Member
Mar 16, 2011
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I like it. I see no issues with the sterling/14 bolt options in a full size personally. A bit heavy and lacking the bling factor? Well yeah, but stock full-floater versions are leagues above the average junkyard 9 inch in strength.

I probably wouldn't put one in a mini truck though.
I used a 14 bolt on my old 4 linked silverado and it worked amazing for me!
 
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FasterNU

Mega Member
Jun 28, 2006
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anyone have the pics of the ole trussed up Sterling tie fighter 10.5... from who was it ggranger or something? He got a lot of shit for that... and well a boatload of other reasons. HAHAH
 

littlebird

member
Feb 26, 2019
95
123
33
NY
A 5 lug Sterling D60 abomination is borne.

My Tig machine maxes out at 175amps. Would appreciate input from veterans on whether to have a shop I trust with a bigger machine weld in the snouts.

If I did it myself, my plan was to preheat and pin the pedal and triple pass the snout/tube perimeter, and then pin it again on the plug welds.

axle tube wall is .5" thick and snout wall about the same.

Thoughts?

219612
 
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