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desertbound1024

Senior Member
Jul 23, 2012
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What’s up guys, figured I’d resurrect this buggies section with a shortened Manx (clone) build. Picked up this Manx a few months back and have been cleaning up the previous owners botch jobs since.

As of now the car has 3x3’s rear with a stock cut and turned front, 2276 T1 and bug trans. I have an 002 that I’ll be throwing in. Eventual plans are to run a Nichols fab front end and swap in an ecotec or similar. Passenger side trailing arm (dans performance) needs to be tweaked at the inner pivot as it has way to much camber built into it.

For now I plan to just add some necessary chassis support and drive it for a few seasons.



Day I picked it up


Note the camber issues on the passenger side


Start of the tear down





Start of the the body lift/support rails to strengthen up the chassis. Car came with a crappy sheet metal body lift which is being replaced with 2x3 .120 wall. Working with what I’ve got for now, which is forcing me to use flux core(don’t judge me)





How it currently sits.


Plan is to add some support tubes from the front bulkhead to the beam, and add some x bracing from the outside rails to the tunnel which will tie into the rear torsion tube. Whoever originally shortened the pan did a terrible job so I will be cutting out the rear pan halves and replacing with sheet metal or steel Diamond plate for the time being. Any input or suggestions would be appreciated.


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Last edited:

84projectford

Senior Member
Staff member
Sep 8, 2010
3,413
4,042
113
Phoenix Az
just as a future reference and to help keep from destroying your calipers. move the rear calipers so they are on the bottom or forward facing. t1 axles like to snap when driven hard, if/when you get to that point. the factory german ones last longer imho over the chromoly empi ones. i ran converted german 930 t1 axles for a few years before i eventually nutted up and put microstubs on when i built 5x5 trailing arms (had 3x3 before)
 

desertbound1024

Senior Member
Jul 23, 2012
610
12
18
You have 2 drivers side trailing arms. The mounts are not the problem.
I’ll reach out to Dans but I doubt they will do anything about it because I’m not the original purchaser.

The plan was to cut the inner pivot bushing out and rotate it to achieve the proper camber.


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Last edited:

desertbound1024

Senior Member
Jul 23, 2012
610
12
18
You have 2 drivers side trailing arms. The mounts are not the problem.
Spoke with Dan from Dans performance. He is adamant that they are not both driver side arms based on the spring plate mounts on the arms. He seems to think that the bolts on the spring plate need to be loosened and adjusted to fix the camber. Not entirely sure how that would fix it as that should only effect toe by moving it in and out, but it’s worth giving it a shot before I go with new arms.


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partybarge_pilot

Uno mas Cervesa!
May 14, 2004
17,871
14,830
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Boringsville
Bolts adjust toe. Slightly.

I have swaped a set of arms on a bug where they were installed on the wrong side. Had to cut off the shock mounts and put new ones on the other side.
 

desertbound1024

Senior Member
Jul 23, 2012
610
12
18
Bolts adjust toe. Slightly.

I have swaped a set of arms on a bug where they were installed on the wrong side. Had to cut off the shock mounts and put new ones on the other side.
I have had that as well, but due to only one side having a camber issue, I ruled that out as the cause.


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