My Single Cab Ranger Hooptie

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oorracing

<span style="color: orange;">DR Mod</span>
Jan 15, 2006
10,575
84
48
Long Beach Ca
Totally doable. Put the C pillar of the cage outside the cab (that gives you about 2”-2.5” more room at the back of the cab) tuck the roof tubes tight, and ditch the huge stock dash. Going to an aftermarket dash will free up so much legroom and make it comfortable in there.


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marcytech

Mega Member
Mar 16, 2011
6,068
413
83
coming from the guy who wanted to put a t100 cab on a ranger frame because "im just too big for extended cab rangers"
 

charlie_brown

OG Member
Aug 10, 2004
2,789
103
63
OC/BAJA
before you drop that sohc in, change out that plastic thermal stat housing for a cast one. I had to change out the plastic one every year because of leaks and it suck ass. also change the timing chain. all 3 of them. in order to change the rear one after it is installed, you either need to use a hole saw the fire wall or pull the motor.
 

charlie_brown

OG Member
Aug 10, 2004
2,789
103
63
OC/BAJA
before you drop that sohc in, change out that plastic thermal stat housing for a cast one. I had to change out the plastic one every year because of leaks and it suck ass. also change the timing chain. all 3 of them. in order to change the rear one after it is installed, you either need to use a hole saw the fire wall or pull the motor.

I used the auto fab motor mounts which are very good and easy but.... the motor sits very high and can be tricky to get some cross over tubs to clear the hood/engine. some other people "notch" the cross member to sit the motor lower.
 
Last edited:

charlie_brown

OG Member
Aug 10, 2004
2,789
103
63
OC/BAJA
before you drop that sohc in, change out that plastic thermal stat housing for a cast one. I had to change out the plastic one every year because of leaks and it suck ass. also change the timing chain. all 3 of them. in order to change the rear one after it is installed, you either need to use a hole saw the fire wall or pull the motor
 

KaiserJ

Senior Member
Jan 7, 2014
535
6
18
Pomona, CA
before you drop that sohc in, change out that plastic thermal stat housing for a cast one. I had to change out the plastic one every year because of leaks and it suck ass. also change the timing chain. all 3 of them. in order to change the rear one after it is installed, you either need to use a hole saw the fire wall or pull the motor
Thanks for the heads up! I️ do plan on having some preventative stuff done on the motor before it goes in, timing chains like you’ve said, water pump, & probably swap gaskets on stuff just to make sure I️ don’t have any leaking issues once it’s in the truck like you’ve mentioned.


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KaiserJ

Senior Member
Jan 7, 2014
535
6
18
Pomona, CA
Got the cracked hanger welded up, and the sheared one welded, grinder, and plated on both sides. This should hold me over until I can link it, (so hopefully it holds for a few years lol)



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the bodj

1st post pg805
Mar 4, 2010
10,350
197
63
Moorpark
You got it! Also, try to make your tack welds as small as you can. The less metal you have to run over, the better
 

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