Project 2 Ghetto Build Thread

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yltaco05

Senior Member
Jan 18, 2006
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Fullerton, CA
Damn I love that color!

My buddy did the sliding tube idea but instead of a pin, he used a linear actuator. Worked bitchen for driver changes. He said it was also nice when you get going and sink into the seat a little, tap the actuator forward and bam the harnesses are tight again. Power seats in a race car and prerunner are pretty over the top but bad ass at the same time lol.
oooo thats bitchen. Always pondered it but haven't worked with actuators too much, and nervous for what happens if it fails. Like no power, cool. but splitting the case or grinding the screw mechanism and the thing gets loose in a crash, thats a big problem
 
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FasterNU

Mega Member
Jun 28, 2006
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San Diego
Damn I love that color!

My buddy did the sliding tube idea but instead of a pin, he used a linear actuator. Worked bitchen for driver changes. He said it was also nice when you get going and sink into the seat a little, tap the actuator forward and bam the harnesses are tight again. Power seats in a race car and prerunner are pretty over the top but bad ass at the same time lol.
Thanks!

Damn, that's a pretty trick idea. Might need to look at that for G4!? I assume actuators are rock solid in terms of strength? As in... I wonder what they are rated at to hold something still in tension?

And I still wonder if you would get binding issues on sliding tubes. That is my biggest concern.
 

04yfzkid

I are smarts
Mar 21, 2007
33,413
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Flagstaff, AZ
I know this was concern when he first installed it. I think he went slightly overkill for the unknown safety reasons. It held up great in the 10 car for several races (sold), and his wifes 4 seater is still rocking it. I want to say it had bushings on the larger tube to help it slide better but it's been a while. I'll ask if I make it to ocotillo this weekend.

The actuator is mounted off a floor tube behind the seat and connects to the seat slider around the middle of the seat. In tension the seatbelts should be doing most of the work, in this case, compression is where I would be worried. Not that it's a big deal but these engineering classes force me to point out the stupid details lol.
 
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smokeysevin

is Ron Burgundy?
Dec 28, 2012
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Houston
I know this was concern when he first installed it. I think he went slightly overkill for the unknown safety reasons. It held up great in the 10 car for several races (sold), and his wifes 4 seater is still rocking it. I want to say it had bushings on the larger tube to help it slide better but it's been a while. I'll ask if I make it to ocotillo this weekend.

The actuator is mounted off a floor tube behind the seat and connects to the seat slider around the middle of the seat. In tension the seatbelts should be doing most of the work, in this case, compression is where I would be worried. Not that it's a big deal but these engineering classes force me to point out the stupid details lol.
Going to make an assumption here: I bet the actuators are static locking meaning that if they fail they stay put. The only way for them to fail and slide is if you eject the worm gear which is less likely than a motor failing.

Sean
 

yltaco05

Senior Member
Jan 18, 2006
1,445
273
83
Fullerton, CA
most that ive seen are an acme screw and nut. the shaft rides on the nut, which is usually plastic... the "screw" rotates via reduction gears and motor. if the plastic nut grenades, the shaft can do whatever it wants

214507
 
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smokeysevin

is Ron Burgundy?
Dec 28, 2012
362
78
28
Houston
most that ive seen are an acme screw and nut. the shaft rides on the nut, which is usually plastic... the "screw" rotates via reduction gears and motor. if the plastic nut grenades, the shaft can do whatever it wants

View attachment 214507
I stand corrected, I didn't realize they were plastic nuts. I figured bronze but I guess cost drives everything.

Sean

Sent from my LM-G710 using Tapatalk
 
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