Project 2 Ghetto Build Thread

Welcome to DezertRangers
Join the community. Register today for all the benefits of membership.
Register

yltaco05

Senior Member
Jan 18, 2006
1,950
708
113
Fullerton, CA
Damn I love that color!

My buddy did the sliding tube idea but instead of a pin, he used a linear actuator. Worked bitchen for driver changes. He said it was also nice when you get going and sink into the seat a little, tap the actuator forward and bam the harnesses are tight again. Power seats in a race car and prerunner are pretty over the top but bad ass at the same time lol.
oooo thats bitchen. Always pondered it but haven't worked with actuators too much, and nervous for what happens if it fails. Like no power, cool. but splitting the case or grinding the screw mechanism and the thing gets loose in a crash, thats a big problem
 
  • Like
Reactions: FasterNU

FasterNU

Mega Member
Jun 28, 2006
7,782
1,210
113
San Diego
Damn I love that color!

My buddy did the sliding tube idea but instead of a pin, he used a linear actuator. Worked bitchen for driver changes. He said it was also nice when you get going and sink into the seat a little, tap the actuator forward and bam the harnesses are tight again. Power seats in a race car and prerunner are pretty over the top but bad ass at the same time lol.
Thanks!

Damn, that's a pretty trick idea. Might need to look at that for G4!? I assume actuators are rock solid in terms of strength? As in... I wonder what they are rated at to hold something still in tension?

And I still wonder if you would get binding issues on sliding tubes. That is my biggest concern.
 

04yfzkid

I are smarts
Mar 21, 2007
33,500
378
83
Flagstaff, AZ
I know this was concern when he first installed it. I think he went slightly overkill for the unknown safety reasons. It held up great in the 10 car for several races (sold), and his wifes 4 seater is still rocking it. I want to say it had bushings on the larger tube to help it slide better but it's been a while. I'll ask if I make it to ocotillo this weekend.

The actuator is mounted off a floor tube behind the seat and connects to the seat slider around the middle of the seat. In tension the seatbelts should be doing most of the work, in this case, compression is where I would be worried. Not that it's a big deal but these engineering classes force me to point out the stupid details lol.
 
  • Like
Reactions: yltaco05

smokeysevin

is Ron Burgundy?
Dec 28, 2012
607
250
63
Houston
I know this was concern when he first installed it. I think he went slightly overkill for the unknown safety reasons. It held up great in the 10 car for several races (sold), and his wifes 4 seater is still rocking it. I want to say it had bushings on the larger tube to help it slide better but it's been a while. I'll ask if I make it to ocotillo this weekend.

The actuator is mounted off a floor tube behind the seat and connects to the seat slider around the middle of the seat. In tension the seatbelts should be doing most of the work, in this case, compression is where I would be worried. Not that it's a big deal but these engineering classes force me to point out the stupid details lol.
Going to make an assumption here: I bet the actuators are static locking meaning that if they fail they stay put. The only way for them to fail and slide is if you eject the worm gear which is less likely than a motor failing.

Sean
 

yltaco05

Senior Member
Jan 18, 2006
1,950
708
113
Fullerton, CA
most that ive seen are an acme screw and nut. the shaft rides on the nut, which is usually plastic... the "screw" rotates via reduction gears and motor. if the plastic nut grenades, the shaft can do whatever it wants

214507
 
  • Like
Reactions: smokeysevin

FasterNU

Mega Member
Jun 28, 2006
7,782
1,210
113
San Diego
Eeek.

I already bought the billet ones from Chassis Unlimited. Hopefully I can make um work without redoing too much shit...
 

smokeysevin

is Ron Burgundy?
Dec 28, 2012
607
250
63
Houston
most that ive seen are an acme screw and nut. the shaft rides on the nut, which is usually plastic... the "screw" rotates via reduction gears and motor. if the plastic nut grenades, the shaft can do whatever it wants

View attachment 214507
I stand corrected, I didn't realize they were plastic nuts. I figured bronze but I guess cost drives everything.

Sean

Sent from my LM-G710 using Tapatalk
 
  • Like
Reactions: FasterNU

FasterNU

Mega Member
Jun 28, 2006
7,782
1,210
113
San Diego
Well... did a bunch more driving. Been having a blast. Took it out right after Christmas.

Loading up.





Snow on the road! YES!!





Sunset


Sunrise


Awesome weather...chocolate cake for the dirt bike!!!



But, holy shit it was muddy for the truck!!





link pockets FULL of clay!





Lost all my ride height!!!


Whiskey was had! My buddy was too hung over to ride his dirt bike. Not me!! I had a blast roosting that cake!



this vid was actually from the last trip when it was drier... but i was having a ton of fun on this berm shot on this trip too. 3rd pinned and crank it!

 
  • Like
Reactions: TotalPozerRaceing

FasterNU

Mega Member
Jun 28, 2006
7,782
1,210
113
San Diego
Soo... all that fun meant I was gifted with 5x hours of cleaning... and STILL not done!

Here is half of Ocotillo on my truck







like 2" thick!



Getting there...











Then to front yard for final pressure wash... neighbors must love me.





Every time i see that orange pop... I feel the need to try and capture it in the camera. Never looks the same as by eye... maybe one day I will get it!

 

FasterNU

Mega Member
Jun 28, 2006
7,782
1,210
113
San Diego
Noticed some problems on clean up...

OOPSIE!!! Doh, hadn't checked hubs in a while. Inner axle seals don't let you know when an outer hub seal gets loose.. cuz no oil leaks out!



WUT THAT!?


Not good. Bearings were TOAST!! Like non existent! You can see where rollers got embedded in the oil seal. LOL. How was this rolling!?



Inner bearing shewed on hub a little. Snout got some marks too. Seems like it will still work OK though. So, got new bearings, etc.... and gonna "send it" once I get another oil seal.

Other side wasn't trashed.. but the grease was pretty beat too. Noticed some heat marks on snout for inner bearing. Went ahead and put new bearings and races in this side. All back together.




Since I am waiting on the oil seal... decided no better time to get the seat sliders installed. I could have just bolted them right in... but the height would have gone up like 1.75". No thanks! So.. I cut out old mounts. and made new ones as low as possible. I think it ended up being only 1/2" taller when all said and done.

Made them as parallel as possible. It was within less than 1/32 when fully extended. I also made them slightly narrow compared to the seat (1/16"). I was worried about binding. And rightfully so. Did double shear on lower portion too... hoping to keep things from flexing and binding



I had to mess with some washers as shims. The seat tabs weren't exactly same spacing front to back. Shit was still was binding even after swearing I had it nailed! But... it was dry. So, took them back apart... and greased the shit outa them. Then put it back in. BAM!!! Now it works pretty damn good!!!



So, now my truck is midget friendly!



Now she just sits and waits for a seal... and then she should be back in action!

 

Today's birthdays

New Threads

New Classifieds

latest desert trips

Member Builds