Yup, it was 5 fucking days after flogging the 4Skinner that I got bored and started tearing into the front end.
Cut off bumpstops, droop stops, upper shock mount, and brake line tabs using a combination of Chinee Prasma Cuttel, sawzall, 4.5” grinder with 5” cutoff wheel, and the badass air hammer of justice.
Unbolt all suspension, axles, torsion bars, delete all unnecessary bracketry, and sand/grind the frame so it’ll assuredly fucking rust:
7.5 fucking miserable hours over 3 days from 2/26 to 2/28.
Cutoff wheels: 3
Sawzall blades: 1
Flap discs: 3
Hard grinding wheels: 2
Fucks yelled: dozens
Beers spilled: 3
Times I swept the floor: 0
I love this fucking air hammer! I wish I knew why brand it is. Probably dotco or airco or something else aerospacy from the ‘60’s
I had to use the press to install the Total Chaos bushings into the arms. Those fuckers are tight! Semi-legit hydraulic press setup...
Frame was totally fucked out. And the flat tow receiver tube abortion that someone botched onto the front of the frame stuck out like a syphilitic hooded dick. Shit’s tweaked!
Drivers side is pushed toward the center of the vehicle by about 1/2” but that fucker is staying right there!
Sliced the top, inside, and bottom of the passenger frame rail just forward of the A-Arm and motor mounts.
Pounded the frame into place with a 10 lb sledge and twisted it true with a 24” pipe wrench.
Cut that ugly flat tow shit off with a combination of Prasma and 4.5” grinder. Fucking miserable. Drivers side caught on fire 69 times from all the leaking power steering fluid.
What a fucking mess. Looks like it took 5X 5” cutoff wheels at least....
Used a piece of 5/8” allthread through the suspension pivot holes to set the frames rails at the same height. More mini-sledge swinging!
Total hours in the front end at this point: 12
Black snot rockets: 47
Beers: unknown. Definitely more than a dozen.
I love when people install front trailer hitches for bike racks or what knows what and they always get used as tow points or random shit. I did a front receiver on a sprinter van stock sheet metal crash bar under bumper. Made the owner of van sign a document stating it was made to ONLY hold the bike rack and couldn't handle anything more than 5 lb load in any direction but vertically. Covers my ass and he knew I was serious when I make him sign that since I've seen it mess up more than one vehicle. Much easier to back up a boat with a hitch on the front of the vehicle. LOL
Machined some lower sleeves from 1.0x0.188” wall 4130.
Yeah bitches! Bolting on longer control arms is always so fucking exciting!
Clearance was needed for the upper arm to allow full droop.
Marked inner fender with the Total Chaos shock hoop and trimmed inner fenders out with tin snips. Quiet, clean, and effective.
The TC upper shock mount is fucking sweet. It braces the 3 bolts that hold the upper arm on and I ended up using it to position the shock hoop. I just dropped the hoop into the cradle of the upward pointing tabs. Pretty damn easy.
Got 12.25” travel with the King 2.5x8” 3 tube bypass in there.
3/16” rear frame overlay plate
Tacked everything together, then fully welded tabs and tubes to frame overlay plates on the bench.
Probably will throw some more dickgussets in behind the shocks.
Gussets for the rear of the shock hoop crafted from Coors Light boxes.
LH & RH sheet metal shears used to remove drivers side fenderwell
Drivers side shock mount TIG action. The Total Chaos parts are nice. I’m glad I told @FatJeff to buy the shock hoop kit. $358 well spent.
One made from 1/8” 4130 scrap, other made from hot rolled poverty steel.
Fully welded with extra rear gussets and rear frame overlay plate. TC kit comes with only the front frame overlay plate that welds in just aft of the leaky steering box.
These are the extra frame overlay and gussets not supplied by TC:
Mounted resis. Solid 3/8” clearance between hose and resi and upper arm.
Steering extensions came with the LH jam nuts for the outer tierod ends, but not the inners. It’s a weird size that even McMaster doesn’t carry, so I decided to make do with cutting apart the stock pinch coupler.
I welded the pinch collar to the split threads, then cut it off so it would function like a pinch jam nut.
There it is in all its make-do glory. I cinched it tight with channel locks, then tightened the fuck out of the clamp.
I should have changed the inner joints also, but I was being a lazy piece of shit. @FatJeff bought all new everything, and I didn’t change the inners because I was rushing. What a dick.
Girthier torsion adjuster came with the Swayaway PowerBarz. I had to remove them using heat, beer, profanity, penetrant, and lots of hammering. anybody know if these are V6 HD units? They are too wide to work with the half cylinder washer chingaderas that came with the 4Skinner.
Vacuum bleeder for the motherfuckin’ win. Installed LC Engineering extended braided stainless brake lines.
Late night April 2, and April 3, 2021. Drove it out of the shop. Nailed the guesstimation of torsion preload
Front core support is pushed toward the passenger side by almost an inch. Fuckit, I drilled a new hole and pounded the bolt it.
Either I lost the internally splined spacer washer because I am drunk piece of shit, or one side was missing. I bought new ones from Toyota. They are offered 3 thicknesses. 0.065” 0.075” and 0.085” if I remember correctly. I bought one of each.
Installed the 0.075” fucker and sent it.
Cut an angle into the front frame horns to make it look a little better, add a cunt hair of approach angle, and be the same height as the crossmember I planned to use.
Plated the bottom of the frame with 1/8” and the insides with 3/16”