Project G4 AKA QuasiGhetto

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85yota

TT Motorsports
Nov 18, 2004
10,265
1,432
113
Santa Maria, CA
www.tt-motorsports.com
RE: Drilling with hole saws on plate.

I use McMaster Carr high speed hole saws for 5/8" and 9/16" holes both with a centering bit and sometimes I'll tack a washer in the location I want to drill a hole as a guide to use with a hand drill. I've had awesome experience with a corded Dewalt hand drill that has a low rpm variable speed switch and just shaves metal nicely both with regular bits and the hole saws when at the balancing point between pressure on the bit and turning speed.
I just had to open up a couple holes on my frame from 1.25" to 1.5" so I drilled a hole in a piece of plate and tacked it centered on the 1.25" hole and then used my 1.5" holesaw to drill it out. Much much easier than using an air die grinder to open them up.
 
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the bodj

1st post pg805
Mar 4, 2010
12,088
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Moorpark
I just had to open up a couple holes on my frame from 1.25" to 1.5" so I drilled a hole in a piece of plate and tacked it centered on the 1.25" hole and then used my 1.5" holesaw to drill it out. Much much easier than using an air die grinder to open them up.
Just use the super big step bit from HF haha. That's what I would have done.
 

DirtFiend602

DR Maitre'D
Dec 12, 2008
14,652
1,805
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As an alternative to anular cutters or hole hogs... Morse carbide tipped hole Saws are priced right and work very well. Used them on a lot of schedule stainless pipe. They hold up.
 
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FasterNU

Mega Member
Jun 28, 2006
8,061
1,764
113
San Diego
Ordered a Ron Davis 34 x 16 radiator. Still waiting in my TerminatorX max.

But, got my restomod stuff. I think half my cost was in their fancy packaging!!



hard to take pics with a baby. lol



fucking plastic lockets and shit. How cute





no matter how I looked at the lower links... when I was making overlays.. I saw eyes... Like johnny 5 or an angry face. So, ended up making an owl faced super hero mask overlay. I plan on making a plate that will span across that big open hole on top too.



Still waiting on my sway bar arms too. But got some muffstuff heim kits. I like how their bungs are all hex'd out now. I still need to shorten the sway bar tie rod ends some. If I can, I'd like to keep the arms from going above bed cage rail at full bump. Gonna be close because you need some length to still allow full droop. More cycling fun! Extensions are also too long for this build as they just kiss bumpstops as it swings by. So, will also have to make G4 max arm length a little less than 2Ghetto's

 

85yota

TT Motorsports
Nov 18, 2004
10,265
1,432
113
Santa Maria, CA
www.tt-motorsports.com
I just ordered restomod stuff for my build as well. Good quality stuff from what I've seen online and their dash vents are legit but at $200 a piece too rich for my blood so gonna go with something cheaper since I'm not building a hot rod and need billet stuff. Lol
 

FasterNU

Mega Member
Jun 28, 2006
8,061
1,764
113
San Diego
yea, totally overpriced. I just had to because the vents seem to be the only ones that look good. Speaking of which... started dicking with mounting that stuff.

I knew this side would be a problem on pass side because it is not flat. So, basically put it at flattest spot that still looked ok.



Then tried to match it on other side.



Vents were cake. Controls require a 1-5/8" hole saw. Must be more from hot rod scene and their gay ass 1-5/8" tubing. Jerks. Have one on order. To drill 3x holes and never use it again. Derp.





And got my brakes.... problem is... those fuckers at Wilwood recently changed all the color on their anodization!! These mcfucking things are fucking grey as fuck. Not even close to the black from before. Only way to get matching.... I'd have to buy new front calipers. WTF!! Does that express my displeasure?

 

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