Project G4 AKA QuasiGhetto

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SByota

Senior Member
Jul 16, 2003
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The 2wd tundra I’m working on and my 4wd Silverado both have two piece drive lines with slip yokes at the trans/transfer case. Since the carrier bearing is fixed, it becomes your “fixed” yoke. The slip yoke is held in place by the carrier bearing and won’t move. I’m not seeing the point to a fixed yoke at the trans and a fixed carrier bearing too.
 

FasterNU

Mega Member
Jun 28, 2006
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San Diego
hmm. Now that I think about it... my Ranger is the same way.

I figured the fixed yoke would make it better because the carrier bearing wouldn't have any chance of getting pushed around by the slip in the drive shaft. ( Carrier bearing isn't super stout and I assumed under load there would be a decent amount of friction from driveshaft slip).

I did find some pretty beefy carrier bearings from Rock donkey guys... and these seem like they would hold it steady too. So perhaps a slip yoke in front with these wouldn't be an issue at all.

What you guys think of these? Wide open one is sealed bearings... and TMR one is timken.

Wide Open Racing

And the TMR Customs one at $600!!
 

jonsangel

Senior Member
Apr 13, 2009
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Los Angeles
seems like overkill. I think any ball bearing type carrier bearing would be ok. You're going to have a shaft diameter of like 1-1.5" which a deep groove ball bearing of that size has a radial load capacity of 2000-3000 lbs. The axial load capacity of ball bearings is typically 50% of the radial load. I would guess the plunge friction is easily < 200 lbs
 

FasterNU

Mega Member
Jun 28, 2006
8,156
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San Diego
Nothing wrong with overkill, right!? (Well except the money part. LOL)

I'd like a bullet proof driveline though. Kinda the theme of this build. Go big and go broke.

There is also this one so you don't have to worry about warping the bearing retainer like the Wide Open Racing one.

 
Last edited:

Klever

Senior Member
Aug 21, 2008
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"I figured the fixed yoke would make it better because the carrier bearing wouldn't have any chance of getting pushed around by the slip in the drive shaft. ( Carrier bearing isn't super stout and I assumed under load there would be a decent amount of friction from driveshaft slip)."

-Correct, with a fixed tail housing on the transmission side you can run a rubber isolated carrier bearing no problem.
 

FasterNU

Mega Member
Jun 28, 2006
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San Diego
^^^ yea but from everything I am reading.... that means I need to rebuild the tranny, right!? Unless someone makes a yoke that somehow gets clamped to the end of the output shaft with that bolt. I haven't seen one yet though.

I'm leaning towards this route now:

1. Put a stout carrier bearing in from the get go and use slip style yoke.

2. If I still end up with problems.... or if/when I rebuild the tranny... switch to a fixed yoke output shaft and bolt on yoke... and just re-do the mid shaft if I need to.

Doubt I can go wrong with the old pay as you go program.
 
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Turboyota

Senior Member
Mar 29, 2017
6,326
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Yucaipa
On my turbo400, I drilled and tapped the output shaft 1/2-20 and made a spacer to space the yoke out properly.

No disassembly required. 2000-3000 miles with no issues.
 
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partybarge_pilot

Uno mas Cervesa!
May 14, 2004
15,374
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Boringsville
^^^^^^^^^^ you can do that, but that output shaft isn't really set up to take thrust loads.

Edit: if you don't have a shit ton of plunge it will not be an issue.

Bert edit: his is all ready tapped.
 
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84projectford

Senior Member
Sep 8, 2010
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Phoenix Az
Not gunna lie, I have a 3/8” bolt welded to the end of my output shaft to hold my fixed yoke flange. So far I’ve worn out a dc joint and killed the slip yoke splines with no issues on the bolt welds.

Not enough room to do the “hack and tap” and wasn’t going to pull the transfer case apart again. It’s been 3 years like that
 
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