Project G4 AKA QuasiGhetto

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oorracing

<span style="color: orange;">DR Mod</span>
Jan 15, 2006
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Long Beach Ca
That price sounds correct for CeraKote at the shop I use. The additional cost typically associated with Cerakote is the labor of pulling everything apart and cleaning it well lol

Inquire about which Cerakote color option is the most durable. I’ve been told some colors are more corrosion resistant than others so choose one that’s buff because one set i did in a medium gray color is already covered in surface rust after a few months. He does go to Mexico and lives near the beach but i assumed Cerakote was more durable than that


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FasterNU

Mega Member
Jun 28, 2006
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San Diego
That price sounds correct for CeraKote at the shop I use. The additional cost typically associated with Cerakote is the labor of pulling everything apart and cleaning it well lol

Inquire about which Cerakote color option is the most durable. I’ve been told some colors are more corrosion resistant than others so choose one that’s buff because one set i did in a medium gray color is already covered in surface rust after a few months. He does go to Mexico and lives near the beach but i assumed Cerakote was more durable than that


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bummer... the gray is the color I like /want
 

FasterNU

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Jun 28, 2006
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VHT'd the business end and x-pipe. Doubt I will do the rest. Primer seemed to spray good. Black not was well. Nooozle kept fucking up



Best part. I thought I was all cool and for some reason thought the v-band I got was stainless. I went to get some more for rest of exhaust...and it says they are mild steel. Oops. So yea, this flashy lil job I did here is gonna rust! I only tacked insides in 4x spots and ground them down with dildo grinder...if, I mean when, they rust I can replace with real stainless ones later.

"just the tip"

 
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FasterNU

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Jun 28, 2006
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^^ LMAO. May or may not be the first time I said my raw tip looked good. haha

So my oil cap plan backfired so far. Apparently there are different ones? And the rotation is off like 90*. So it points right into the AC bracket. Doh... guess I must have gotten one for 2x tabs/slots? They appear to be off about 90* I went ahead and cut the bolt down that was sticking out off ICT bracket. I can use the factory cap right on the valve cover now. Just tight and def need a funnel. Not sure if i want to waste another $20 trying to get what I think must be correct one.

And having fun time connecting with Fox guy.. After I started the Johnny 5 "DISASSEMBLE' of course. LOL. **I called him like 2 or 3 times and of course he called when I was on another line at work yesterday!

Did get these though. Tiny flexies. Plan to put them up by the header after the tubing gets down and straight.



And herro... I got my chinee exraust! oh so funny chalacterl. he no rike-a roud noise. *covers mouth *hee hee hee



And starting to lay out the controls. I will probably just make a mount for the hand brake. I think I might actually have CRB do a console for this one too for shifter, radio, intercom and PTT buttons, and cup holder of course. I jut don't see myself pulling one off that I will be happy with long term... mainly because of how funky the shifter would be to mount.



the ole dickaroo


 

FasterNU

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Jun 28, 2006
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Did another shock DISASSEMBLE last night. Called hydraulic store. Fuckers wanted $13 for a swivel 90* -10 M/F fitting for coil over ressys.
I got them for $6/ea on flea bay delivered with the push of a button. Fuckin bastards. In case you haven't seen Fox 3.5 ressy internals. double wear bands with an oring in middle... no threads... so had to push out with my beatin stick



Oh, and tried to get local exhaust shop to bend my exhaust tube I bought from them into a J bend .... right when he is about to throw it in bender. I say, dude... that's not a mandrel bender! Gimme that back! Fag was about to crinkle up my shit.
So, turdblo wins again. Dumbest thing I did on this truck was buy exhaust tube from local shop. The more I learn ... the more it seems local stores are becoming more and more useless in this day and age... especially if you are smart enough to know what to look for. Should have bought an exhaust kit for $150 online.

Ordered a U-J bend from flea bay for $30. (Local guy wanted $60.) Hard pass. Hopefully it is enough to finish the exhaust. Got some work to do there though. Need to build a new carrier bearing crossmember. So... on the carrier bearing. Supposed to be at same angle as the output shaft of trans, right? Should I move it fore or aft of stock position? I'm wondering if I could improve some geometry there. Always relied on stock combined with Threats pivots. I would think this would change plunge. If you started from scratch, where do you put it? Halfway between upper and lower pivots? (In terms of fore/aft)

Oh and got the hand brake mount tacked in last night too. Took a bit of time to get it where it was comfortable. People would laugh if they saw me phantom driving in the garage for 15 minutes... even closing eyes to see if it "feels right" driving blind. LOL. And also still need to be able to reach the switches etc. So yea, hoon handle seems to be in a really good position now. Except I don't know how far the throw will be right now. It goes far as fuck with no pressure.



Feel like I got kinda lucky there too. I thought I was going to have to build a plate contraption to get things where I wanted them... turns out a 1.25" tube straight down to seat cross member was perfect. Looks like a flying dick hood ornament. just check out that shadow. I LUV IT! LOL

 

FasterNU

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Jun 28, 2006
8,314
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San Diego
Of course, the dude that I talked to at Fox... "no longer with them". And now I am talking to another guy there.... who wasn't very committal. And didnt send email like I asked either, and no response to my email yesterday. Off to a blazing re-start already. Real nice. haha. So now who knows what's gonna happen.

Worst case scenario. I cut both off and get someone to TIG weld them on. Then find a place to Cerakote. So yea, haven't done much besides DISASSEMBLE.

Realized I need to figure out drive line before I can do exhaust. Go figure there is not a ton of room for two big ass mufflers. No way they are fitting with the wonky ass noodle of a carrier bearing cross member from the factory. So, cut that thing out. RIVETS! And dirt in my face. Ah, the memories of the very beginning.



Look at all that room now though...



Fabbed up this which I can slide back and forth. And lookie there mate... found some ancient hieroglyphics scribed into my frame. Boy is that some crappy artwork? Must be a sign of fertility or something. I wonder if Justin knows? LOL dick.



Tube is right about 33" long of 1.5 x .095. Traced out plate from 3/16" scrap, and made up a simple 1.25" stilt for now. I can rotate this to desired angle. And cut to lower. Also, because this tube is under the frame rail now, it will free up some room for the exhaust. This should allow me to get everything in there.. and we will see where drive shaft will want to be according to barge, at same length of links. Then I will either just cut a second one for a double barrel effect... or wast a bunch of time on a plate contraption. Leaning towards double barrel for ease/simplicity.. eggspecially because of angle.



I ordered a kinda blingy slip yoke. Sonnax T3-3-5571HP. https://www.sonnax.com/parts/3341-slip-yoke

And 3x Spicer 5-130X U-joints (1350 series). I just need to figure out yoke on carrier bearing...oh and couldnt give up on the oil cap either. ordered another one to try when I was buzzed the other night. haha
 
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