Project G4 AKA QuasiGhetto

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84projectford

Senior Member
Staff member
Sep 8, 2010
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Phoenix Az
Well that's good to know. I poured a quart in there.

Now, retarded mechanic question time. How full do you fill the PS fluid container?

I assume it should be above that return line fitting?
your current return to pump line is going to cause cavitaion and a whiny pump. the pump needs to be fed oil like a carburated atv/dirt bike gas tank feeding the carb, fuel.

is there no possible way to straight feed it and get rid of that hump?

when you bleed it, pour in at the resi, take all the weight off the tires and turn the wheel lock to lock with the engine off. keep doing that till the system stops taking oil, then you can start it and move the wheel lock to lock. Your level should be 2/3 - 3/4 full when turning and engine running. if it overfills when the engine is off, lower your level till it wont do that. Be mindful that the resi could run its self dry if its not large enough.
 

FasterNU

Mega Member
Jun 28, 2006
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San Diego
so i see a lot of people running their exhaust like what you have done.

what is the advantage of this? i would think the tight bends and routing it so close to the shocks/coolers and tubs would cause other issues.
I wanted it between frame rails, wanted X-pipe for sound, and didnt want it exiting under cab(to eliminate drone). I didn't seem to have many options besides this... and I have always loved the look and sound of exhaust exirting out top. It's great for Tuff trucks arena. LOL. (i first saw this style routing on Dan Vance's truck)

So mostly for sickness for sure, brah!
Its far away from shocks... but, I am a little concerned about the proximity to cell(hence the gold tape)...and the cooler/condenser. BUT>>> only one way to fuck around and find out!
 

FasterNU

Mega Member
Jun 28, 2006
8,647
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San Diego
your current return to pump line is going to cause cavitaion and a whiny pump. the pump needs to be fed oil like a carburated atv/dirt bike gas tank feeding the carb, fuel.

is there no possible way to straight feed it and get rid of that hump?

when you bleed it, pour in at the resi, take all the weight off the tires and turn the wheel lock to lock with the engine off. keep doing that till the system stops taking oil, then you can start it and move the wheel lock to lock. Your level should be 2/3 - 3/4 full when turning and engine running. if it overfills when the engine is off, lower your level till it wont do that. Be mindful that the resi could run its self dry if its not large enough.

I can't seem to find a clean shot at it.... it's 5/8" ID>... much larger than the other lines... Fingers crossed. Can't be any louder than my Ford pumps on other ones, right
 
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84projectford

Senior Member
Staff member
Sep 8, 2010
3,413
4,042
113
Phoenix Az
I can't seem to find a clean shot at it.... it's 5/8" ID>... much larger than the other lines... Fingers crossed. Can't be any louder than my Ford pumps on other ones, right
it will be more of a matter of it continuing to work and the heat it will build up from it. even if you gotta build it from hard line and make some tight bends, long as it continually down hill, it will be better. soft copper might get it done.
 

FasterNU

Mega Member
Jun 28, 2006
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yea no way to make it down hill it seems? thing would be through the hood.
unless I changed the actual fitting on the pump. then maaaaybe it would be downhill if i ran it under alternator? (I think i saw some pumps have AN fittings on inlet the other day)

Or, maybe running a cooler would fix that heat issue. I was thinking i should probably have put one on from beginning. Fuck it, going for it as is now. Just want to get it going.... and will just have to go faster to go further. LOL.
 

FasterNU

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Jun 28, 2006
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been ordering wiring shit and spending bank. Buying nice tinned copper wire for all main power.

Went overkill on bus bar... this is where I mounted it. Mounted with rivnuts of course.


Will be getting battery cables etc done here soon. Also taking it to CRB for an aluminum console on 9/20.
 

FasterNU

Mega Member
Jun 28, 2006
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San Diego
Radiator should be done at JD fab. Always tinkering away on this. Still been planning out the main power wiring.

switch pros fuses


Put metripack connectors on the fans. Boy those are expensive



#2 AWG cable for the switch pros, and will also use that same stuff for Alternator.


1/0 AWG for the batteries. There will be second line coming thru that same slot too. Just got my VTE warehouse bulkheads to get those thru firewall


This is 12/3 that will run back to the fans and S2's in frame caps. Need to get a grommet. I have the same stuff in 10/3 for the front fans and light bar. It will get covered in that same red/black loom.


But, that is all going on hold... because...Finally getting into CRB for a center console!! Gonna be weird to not have my truck for a couple weeks. This is the first time I will have my personal trucks at a shop and not in my possession. Brakes felt quite mushy and suspect. But damn, she is looking killer...



had to steal battery and winch to get it on trailer...











 

FasterNU

Mega Member
Jun 28, 2006
8,647
2,623
113
San Diego
It got real lonely in the garage with no truck... so I tidied up garage. Then I got bored with that so I started putting cable ends on my big cables since I have to do that anyway. Of course for the 1/0 AWG, the 50mm die is too large.. and the 35 is a bit too small. So I just crimp the 35 most the way. Same thing with the #2 AWG. 35 too big, 25 too small.



Then I got my backup camera from Amazon

Made a backup camera mount for when i get the truck back. Think it should clear the plate. Other option I was thinking was to drill the plate out for it and mount in in the plate itself. I tested that on an old front license plate I had, but didn't really care for it. We'll see what this looks like when i get truck back.



Oh, and check out the 18.5mm holesaw they gave me. Shit barely even scratched the metal... must be for the plastic cars they make today. LOL.

 
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