Project G4 AKA QuasiGhetto

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bullnerd

Senior Member
Feb 1, 2008
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I was just looking through this build on RDZ, Maybe some ideas, continues on next page too.

 

FasterNU

Mega Member
Jun 28, 2006
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San Diego
Thanks for the link! Very similar to mine. And close to one of the options I was thinking. (more like a radius) I don't care for heims being open up top though...

I was spying that build for AC pics too...
 
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bullnerd

Senior Member
Feb 1, 2008
248
42
28
Thanks for the link! Very similar to mine. And close to one of the options I was thinking. (more like a radius) I don't care for heims being open up top though...

I was spying that build for AC pics too...
Very nicely done truck! IMO anyway, lol!
 

FasterNU

Mega Member
Jun 28, 2006
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Got my rear shocks. Annnd.. they didn't have the extended rod ends like I ordered. Durrr.

I went ahead and weighed the front 3.5 x 14 bypass though... 35.75 lbs!


I also learned something. I went to pull these off so I could turn them down. Uhh, NOT NEEDED! Smart move Camburg.



Made some uppers real quick...



Time to cycle.... and see what we got...



Throw the cell in and let' see... Yup, clears truss at full bump...





And NO way.. .this cell is badass. I can keep it right where I want. Why didn't I get one for the other trucks? Oh yea, cuz $$! I can get as much bump as my frame allows.. and then some!! BTW... those are the pinion angle changes on the frame. Not complete full droop.. but 0-24 inches of travel.
Total change = 11.8 degrees.
From approx ride height to bump = 8.2 degrees
From ride height to droop = 3.6 degrees

I wonder how much it will change from me moving the lower brackets (stay tuned...)

 

FasterNU

Mega Member
Jun 28, 2006
7,008
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So, after cycling... found out I did NOT nail it on the wheelbase. I misjudged how much pinion change the new geometry has. (Not as much as I expected). I was at 125.5" I wanted 125.. and that's where my vertical tube is for bump. So, I had to cut off the pockets.. and rotate them back down to what appears to be around centerline. I went down 12.7* from where I was at. So, we never discussed.... What would geometry do if I were to have the lower link pocket slightly behind centerline of the axle tube. I figure the duck walk / roll steer would get closer to 0. This move put the wheelbase back to 124.75 or so. I can adjust it out from there.




So, then I went and got the outsides done...



Everything seems good on the digital angle gauge... weld it up and watch it warp!!





FInally got to use my Grizzly press brake!! Problem is... my vise is gay. And shallow. I couldn't get the second bend done. Had to run over to Justins and use his to get the second bend done!!



So, here it is after running to his house. And Notice that wonky ass vertical weld on the bat wing support. I think something might have been on the tip? Puddle was wacked. Oh well, guess it's just proof I built this. LOL



And then did some welding and more welding...



And all welded up. Ohhh, look I did a good weld. Quick, take peeksha!





OK, finished!

 

FasterNU

Mega Member
Jun 28, 2006
7,008
469
83
San Diego
old pic from last week....



Had family in town and was house watching for a couple people... so didn't get a ton done this weekend. I ended up cutting down the upper links by 1/8"..... because I wanted some adjustability either way from my desired wheelbase. 125"

Things look good now. Pinion angle changes changed a tiny bit from moving the pockets. Like .2 degrees less or so up to bump...a nd al ittle more over entire range.. Hell, that could just be variance in the placement of the gauge.

Welded up the bungs. These bungs were pretty cheap too. NO idea where they came from... seemed short and not much material. Wouldn't choose to buy them myself... Should be ok though.

 
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FasterNU

Mega Member
Jun 28, 2006
7,008
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San Diego
^^They aight. I always seem to focus on the flaws. haha.

Finished a couple .095 tubes behind housing for start of trunk area.. Trying to squeeze out as much space here too... gonbe be fairly tight with brake T etc...



So, did some bindage testing for fun after building those tubes. This isn't even possible in real life... but I'm one of those people that doesn't like to see things like this. Another reason to not try and put the rod ends too close to the top of housing. I'm not going to change it... but just something else I learned.



Can see here where the jam nut will hit and bind .... but like i said.. this level of articulation is impossible with bypass and bumps...

 

FasterNU

Mega Member
Jun 28, 2006
7,008
469
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San Diego
Too busy enjoying the beach... but did get the sway bar tube done.... and now the rear frame section is all straight, etc. I set it up so that I could run the same basic setup I have now. (Camburg 24" arms with my adjustable extensions that take it to just over 28")



oh, and welded in the start of trunk area as well. Just need to box in the notch, get a winch mount, and connect some dots and the back will be mostly done.



Bout ready to cut cab off again and get the cab cage welded up 100% too. That will be a busy weekend, as i need to also dynamat the roof and weld in dome light tabs, etc I really need to get it done though. The rust is getting bad. Then it will be time to do shock mounts, front engine cage etc
 

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