Project G4 AKA QuasiGhetto

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84projectford

Senior Member
Sep 8, 2010
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Phoenix Az
i was going to suggest the RAD shifter setup as well. i plan to put on in my tracker. I like the new adjustable shifter they just came out with too
 

FasterNU

Mega Member
Jun 28, 2006
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San Diego
Well, that RAD shifter is pretty "rad" and all.... Buuuuut, it typically would require the use of the factory CPU. I know I haven't made any decisions yet.. but I was kinda leaning towards the Holley Terminator set up.

I called him(Rory I think?) and talked to him though. Since the Holley Terminator-X MAX set up can allegedly control the 4l80e... we are thinking it may actually work. So perhaps there is still the possibility for me to have auto/manual.

Not sure I really want that though? I don't plan on doing a lot of city driving with this one!

Haven't posted a pic yet.. but Marcel hooked me up with his buddy and I bought a Winters shifter for the 4l80e. (Thanks dood!) Got it yesterday.

First impression: Man, this thing is big. And man, this shit is chunky and hard to get through the slots/gears!!

So, what caught my eye was the Centered Stick Detent he sells. Looks like it might get this thing through the gears better? Anyone try one?
 

smokeysevin

is Ron Burgundy?
Dec 28, 2012
455
148
43
Houston
You can also use a microsquirt for trans control. They have a pnp version now for the 4l80e


I picked up one of the rad shifters for my tundra but have not wired it up yet. I have just been using the winters to move the lever while letting the stock computer control the trans for now.

Shifting with the winters does get easier, the centered gate is not an option for the tundra controller because it uses the left and right "2" position for gear 2 and 3.

It's funny you said it was big, I thought it was small when I got mine but its grown on me a lot.

Sean
 

FasterNU

Mega Member
Jun 28, 2006
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San Diego
Rad kit needs 12v to the switches then to the transmission
You must be talking about just for manual control? The way I interpreted it was that if you wanted the transmission to shift automatically... that it would require some brains. Ie: Either the factory ECU... or some aftermarket ECU that communicates information to the transmission to tell it when to shift

And thinking along further... if this ECU(aftermarket or factory) requires a speed input in order to make calculations for given outputs to the transmission, then that opens another can of worms for me... because you would to generate some sort of speed input for the ECU, right? I was planning to just use an external GPS for my speed. (I highly doubt that would work with ECU)

The more I look at the costs and complications... the more I just lean towards going full manual with it. The Holley Kits are considerably more expensive when you start adding DBW and trans control. Add on RAD stuff... then potentially have to add a tone ring for some sort of manual speed sensor.. Eeek. I'm already blasting the budget with this build.

So yea, leaning towards the DIY wiring in the trans. Full manual, full line pressure... full FREE. Why not!?!

And probably still gonna be a little bummed I didn't stick a manual behind this. I have hated every auto trans I have driven. Even the high end shit on the Lambo I drove. It was OK... but still lacks that feel of a manual. I love that direct feel. Hmmm, maybe that will be the ultimate fate of 2Ghetto if I keep it in the future. T56 behind an LQ4. Something about dropping and dragging a clutch for me.... probably from riding moto and driving manuals my whole life
 

FasterNU

Mega Member
Jun 28, 2006
7,493
849
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San Diego
OK.... finally took rear hubs apart. So has anyone had or seen a Tubeworks set up?

No O-rings. On dust caps or drive plates.. Gonna have to get 4x orings. No biggie there....



I feel like something might not be right here. Like perhaps this isn't their snout. Seems like the snout is welded to a sleeve... that goes into the 4" housing. WTF?



And, something must be missing on this lock nut!! It's threaded like it should have something behind it. Or am I supposed to just do a locking star washer behind it? Like a W-12 or W-13 locking washer. Bearings dry too. Opps. shoulda had those greased up ... since it was sitting outside. Nothing seems rusted though.


Insides still looking aight. Little bit of surface rust. But... after the findings above, my paranoia kicks in. If I recall correctly... The face on this didn't seem very flat when I was using digital angle finder to build link mounts. Does Tubeworks machine these when you send them back for final assembly? or just goop the shit out of it with RTV/The right stuff. I'm getting worried this housing is gonna take a bit of money to get up to snuff.

 

smokeysevin

is Ron Burgundy?
Dec 28, 2012
455
148
43
Houston
From my uneducated eyes the ends look like they have a spacer sleeve on them, can you see any evidence of a rosette weld near the edges on the ends?

EDIT: duh there would be one on the outside but you wouldn't be able to see through the tube. I am an idiot

Edit 2: can you see a heat mark on the inside of the spindle where a rosette weld would be from the inner spindle to the inner sleeve?

Sean
 
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FasterNU

Mega Member
Jun 28, 2006
7,493
849
113
San Diego
There is an indexable lock ring that screws to the outside of the nut. The sleeve deal is new to me.

Did you get bearing spacers too?
NO!! That's a bummer for me too. I don't have tools to make them. I suppose I will ask guy that welds in my snouts to make me some spacers. How do you know how wide to make them? Distant has to be perfect to get torque right....

Does their lock ring have the ovals cut out in it? Can't remember where I have seen one like that before. Maybe my buddies GMR?

Like this one.. but with oval slots?


Other ones I have seen with no star washer are the pinch style.. like the BMS

 
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