Project: "Turboyota" (Tur-BRO-yota would probably be more accurate)

Welcome to DezertRangers
Join the community. Register today for all the benefits of membership.


2:AM Fabrication
Feb 7, 2008
Covina CA
I agree it looks like its boucing off the bumps. My guess is upping spring rate or lowering the secondarys is going to make it pop even worse, and lowering the preload might stop it from popping back up, but itll bottom out harder making it feel more harsh.

Add some comp to the bumpzone piston, dont be afraid of big changes on that piston.
  • Like
Reactions: Turboyota


Senior Member
Mar 29, 2017
Kingpin inclination: 14 degrees
Caster: 8 degrees
Scrub radius: 0.70”
Anti-squat: almost none
Camber at full droop: -4.5 degrees
Camber at ride height: -1.5 degrees
Steering wheel turns lock-to-lock: 2.75
Ackerman: pretty decent

Steering effort has increased. In a corner, if I have to input more steer, it’s definitely an arm workout. Still getting used to it.

Braking is phenomenal. 12.19” rotors, Wilwood 4 piston calipers, and EBC yellowstuff pads work badass. Braking effort is greatly reduced compared to stock. I can lock all 4 wheels very easily on pavement.

@partybarge_pilot asked if I could feel the tire sidewalls deflecting. I have been running 16psi front and 12psi rear in the BFG 35x10.5R15 class 10 tires. So far I have been able to mark pavement off about halfway up the sidewalk whilst driving like an asshole around town. Took HWY 38 from Angelus Oaks to Yucaipa, and it handled predictably and crisply on the curvy mountain road. No complaints.

The tires provide good traction. Gonna try 14psi front and 10psi rear on my next outing.

Front King IBPs: In @Horunner ‘s last video, the compression clickers were still 10 clicks open, so I will hit the same jump again with them only open 2 clicks.

Also took out 3/8” preload.


Tuning up the idler arm.
There is a little slop that develops because I don’t have a crush sleeve.

Old 5/8” shoulder bolt idler arm pivot setup that is very touchy to bolt torque: too much torque and it doesn’t move freely, too little torque and there is play on the passenger side wheel.

New setup reduces bolt to 1/2”, but has a crush sleeve and some custom weld washers. Gonna use baller panty-dropping MS21250 bolts.

Parting off one of the step bushings:

It was 102F in my shop today, so naturally, I started drinking at 9AM. My 70’s box fan died, so I spiked that motherfucker and brought in Big Hoss.

Did I answer everyone’s questions? If not ask again and I’ll do my best to answer.


Senior Member
Mar 29, 2017
Finished idler arm tuneup

Time: 4 hours
Beers: lots—it’s been fucking hot
Materials: overlays are 1/8” 4130, sleeve is 5/8” OD 4130 tube, reducer bushings are mystery steel and 17-4 stainless.
Hardware: 1/2” bolts on the idler arm are NAS and MS21250 baller bolts. Drilled out the idler arm frame attachment holes for 7/16” grade 8 hardware to replace stock 10mm bolts.

Boring the step-down bushings to 0.499- to match the badass bolts. I used gauge pins to verify bore size. Knowledge nugget: aerospace hardware is MUCH closer to nominal thicknesses than Grade 8 stuff. A 1/2” GR8 bolt would mic out to 0.493-0.494” typically, for instance. NAS and MS hardware is 0.498-0.4995”.

NAS/AN bolt on left, MS21250 chronic bolt on the right.

Welded the mystery steel and 17-4 step bushings using 309L filler rod, FUPA 12 cup, and 30CFM gas flow

Made some gussets from 1/8” 4130 to beef up the centerlink end of the idler arm:

After all that work in the 102F shop I was significantly inebriated, so I thought it was a good idea to paint the idler arm and frame bracket gold.

I kinda like it. Brings me back to the 80’s and 90’s when all kinds of shit on race trucks was CAD plated.


Latest posts

Today's birthdays

New Threads

New Classifieds

latest desert trips

Member Builds