Project: "Turboyota" (Tur-BRO-yota would probably be more accurate)

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Turboyota

Senior Member
Mar 29, 2017
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I only have enough 2.25x0.120” tube to make one crush sleeve. I can make the other out of aluminum bar I suppose. I don’t want to buy steel to make a single 0.800”~spacer.



Adjustable limit strap setup is complete on passenger side. Migged all of it.


I found a nut to bore out to make a tierod adjuster. Now I need to buy a 1-5/8” crow foot wrench...
 

heezay

Smoke meth, hail satan.
Nov 27, 2011
2,377
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buena park
What rod?

Don’t wanna sound like Monday quarterback but build the fillet out as big as you can, especially for a weird joint like that. Hard to tell but the snout doesn’t look like it has a flange? How tight was the snout in the block? Light press fit? Definitely looks like you tagged something really hard, which no amount of weld would help lol

Weave fix looks good Ryan! Slap it together and run it again! Watch out for rocks


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Turboyota

Senior Member
Mar 29, 2017
5,865
7,000
113
Yucaipa
What rod?

Don’t wanna sound like Monday quarterback but build the fillet out as big as you can, especially for a weird joint like that. Hard to tell but the snout doesn’t look like it has a flange? How tight was the snout in the block? Light press fit? Definitely looks like you tagged something really hard, which no amount of weld would help lol

Weave fix looks good Ryan! Slap it together and run it again! Watch out for rocks


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Rod: ER70S-2 mostly 1/16” (I stopped using 3/32” rod when I burned up the 225A torch pumping 300A through it.)

Snout flange: No

Press fit into 1/2” snout block: light press fit

I tagged something HARD whilst driving in the dust at the dezert meat fest. Hard enough that it popped the drivers side off the ground for awhile and I drove in 2-wheel action for a ways. Hard enough that the upper arm tabs only lasted another 15-20 miles before fatigue ran its course. Hard enough that the spindle developed cracks 69% of the way around the welds.
 
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heezay

Smoke meth, hail satan.
Nov 27, 2011
2,377
259
83
buena park
Rod: ER70S-2 mostly 1/16” (I stopped using 3/32” rod when I burned up the 225A torch pumping 300A through it.)

Snout flange: No

Press fit into 1/2” snout block: light press fit

I tagged something HARD whilst driving in the dust at the dezert meat fest. Hard enough that it popped the drivers side off the ground for awhile and I drove in 2-wheel action for awhile. Hard enough that the upper arm tabs only lasted another 15-20 miles before fatigue ran its course. Hard enough that I the spindle developed cracks 69% of the way around the welds.
Sounds about par for the course then, little gouge action, re weld and sssssssssend! First class mail!


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Turboyota

Senior Member
Mar 29, 2017
5,865
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Yucaipa
Found some cracks in the lower a-arm pivot/engine crossmember last night at 9:30PM.

Inside of the frame is plated with 3/16”, and it was cracking at the junction of the rear of the cross member and the frame plating for the rear lower arm pivot tabs.

Ground out the cracks with a carbide burr, cleaned the area, welded up the cracks, and added a gusset. Done at 10:30PM.

Beers: 4
Materials: 1/8 HR and 1/8” P&O

Crack:


Crack welded, than stress raiser area bridged with a gusset plate. Passenger side:


Driver side



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Ryan Jubera

Senior Member
Apr 12, 2008
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This is why i diss like weld in snouts. You can do everything perfect. Bevel preheat press fit etc and still chase cracks depending on driving style. My buddy used to prep the rivi truck and ever prep the snouts had cracks on them they would grind out the welded and reweld etc. Bolt in snouts replace bolts ever 2 to 3 trips depending on driving style. Nice slip with with decent shoulder register is the way to go. Glad you cought it before bad failure.

Curious was it 4130 or just 1018.

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Turboyota

Senior Member
Mar 29, 2017
5,865
7,000
113
Yucaipa
This is why i diss like weld in snouts. You can do everything perfect. Bevel preheat press fit etc and still chase cracks depending on driving style. My buddy used to prep the rivi truck and ever prep the snouts had cracks on them they would grind out the welded and reweld etc. Bolt in snouts replace bolts ever 2 to 3 trips depending on driving style. Nice slip with with decent shoulder register is the way to go. Glad you cought it before bad failure.

Curious was it 4130 or just 1018.

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Snout is Coleman—rings like 4140 or 4340

1/2” faceplate is mystery steel. It’s a Blanchard ground dropoff from CalMesa steel. It welded really nice—no undercutting, popping, dirtiness or weirdness.

I hit something HARD on that side at the meat fest. There were no issues on the other side that didn’t get walloped.
 
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