Rod: ER70S-2 mostly 1/16” (I stopped using 3/32” rod when I burned up the 225A torch pumping 300A through it.)What rod?
Don’t wanna sound like Monday quarterback but build the fillet out as big as you can, especially for a weird joint like that. Hard to tell but the snout doesn’t look like it has a flange? How tight was the snout in the block? Light press fit? Definitely looks like you tagged something really hard, which no amount of weld would help lol
Weave fix looks good Ryan! Slap it together and run it again! Watch out for rocks
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Sounds about par for the course then, little gouge action, re weld and sssssssssend! First class mail!Rod: ER70S-2 mostly 1/16” (I stopped using 3/32” rod when I burned up the 225A torch pumping 300A through it.)
Snout flange: No
Press fit into 1/2” snout block: light press fit
I tagged something HARD whilst driving in the dust at the dezert meat fest. Hard enough that it popped the drivers side off the ground for awhile and I drove in 2-wheel action for awhile. Hard enough that the upper arm tabs only lasted another 15-20 miles before fatigue ran its course. Hard enough that I the spindle developed cracks 69% of the way around the welds.
Snout is Coleman—rings like 4140 or 4340This is why i diss like weld in snouts. You can do everything perfect. Bevel preheat press fit etc and still chase cracks depending on driving style. My buddy used to prep the rivi truck and ever prep the snouts had cracks on them they would grind out the welded and reweld etc. Bolt in snouts replace bolts ever 2 to 3 trips depending on driving style. Nice slip with with decent shoulder register is the way to go. Glad you cought it before bad failure.
Curious was it 4130 or just 1018.
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