Sway away resi replacement

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A.J.

OG
Jan 29, 2002
4,083
559
113
Yuma, Az
There ain’t a scratch in them. You can feel the difference when you put the ifp in. Nice and snug then loosens up 1/4 the way in. Feels like they got 300k miles on them. I’ll have to throw my bore gauge on them and take pics when I change them with Ryan’s resi’s. Maybe they need “hone marks”?

Flip that bitch around and use the other 1/4 inch?
 

84projectford

Senior Member
Sep 8, 2010
2,898
3,139
113
Phoenix Az
IFP will ride in the same area. it sits more towards the center where the issue is at ride height so it wont fix my issue sadly. the thicker metric o-ring should have fixed this as well.
 

84projectford

Senior Member
Sep 8, 2010
2,898
3,139
113
Phoenix Az
Mine moves well more than that. I set them 5.75” from bottom after seal head is popped in on a 11” resi. At full compression, the ifp is 2.75” from bottom out. That’s a 10” stroke shock. I had to verify this to make sure I didn’t bottom the ifp out the wrong way being I set it shallower and wanted the higher ramp rate.

It makes a difference with this valving setup.

The 6” resi’s from rouse will be better suited for this. I can just bottom them out, pop seal head in and be on my way.
 

85yota

TT Motorsports
Nov 18, 2004
11,021
2,262
113
Santa Maria, CA
www.tt-motorsports.com
What I have always done for the last 15 years is bottom out the IFP in the resi completely and apply a small charge to keep it there until the piston is installed and then I discharge when I push in the seal head which sets the IFP the necessary amount to make them cycle fully. I at first would set the IFP as a certain depth like people explained to do them, BUT i do like King says now and bottom out the IFP and then assemble shocks. Then once assembled I compress the shock fully, charge it and watch the shaft extend smoothly. If the shaft jumps at all when extending after being charge you have air in there and get to tear it down and do it again.
 
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