T1 FUN - 1998 Toyota T100 SR5 4x4, 5-spd, TRD Supercharged

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Turboyota

Senior Member
Mar 29, 2017
3,823
2,479
113
Yucaipa
The TRD header flanges are a great design!

The little “tab” between each exhaust port allows the flange to easily stretch and expand as the aluminum head heats up and doesn’t induce undue stress into the head or exhaust flange because the coefficient of thermal expansion(CTE) of the aluminum head is double the CTE of the exhaust flange.

Bitchin’.
 

the bodj

1st post pg805
Mar 4, 2010
10,637
499
83
Moorpark
The TRD header flanges are a great design!

The little “tab” between each exhaust port allows the flange to easily stretch and expand as the aluminum head heats up and doesn’t induce undue stress into the head or exhaust flange because the coefficient of thermal expansion(CTE) of the aluminum head is double the CTE of the exhaust flange.

Bitchin’.
Nerdddddddd
 

bullnerd

Senior Member
Feb 1, 2008
421
123
43
The TRD header flanges are a great design!

The little “tab” between each exhaust port allows the flange to easily stretch and expand as the aluminum head heats up and doesn’t induce undue stress into the head or exhaust flange because the coefficient of thermal expansion(CTE) of the aluminum head is double the CTE of the exhaust flange.

Bitchin’.
Exactly what I was thinking.
 

Drayke

Always Baja Bound
Jan 29, 2007
1,033
263
83
Torrance
yeah those headers are rad. Toyota does actually have some smart dudes working in their race department I guess. (y)
 

SoupGFX

Member
Dec 6, 2013
184
116
43
San Diego
It was time to make the big decision in which company I decided to move forward with on the T1-FUN. It was a 3-way tie between Total Chaos' caddy kit, JD-Fab's kit or the Blazeland extension kit. The TC and JD kits were both coming in around $10K. Both kits look and from what I have read, perform the way they should. The Blazeland kit has options: Already modified control arms or the WIY kit. After much deliberation and online research I did decided to go with the Blazeland kit. Seeing how @Horunner 's kit performs for the cost and ability to keep the torsion bars weighed heavily on my decision. As well as the cost. For the same amount of money as the TC/JD-Fab kits, I would be able to buy most of the fab equipment to allow me to weld it myself and learn how to do it.

I found a second set of control arms on CL and proceeded to go through the process of modifying the arms.

CL arms


Sand blasted and the first cuts


I won't go into all the steps of modifying the arms but I'll show you some of what I did.












Ground down some of my shitty welds on the top. Hoping that I kept enough meat on them so that they don't crack.


It came time to press out the old bushings and install the new ones. (Fuck this step) I did the top control arms but threw in the towel for the bottoms. I took them to a shop and had them press out those out. I had to keep the old metal bushings which made the task even harder. I decided to go with polyurethane for the replacement and I think next time, I'll just go with rubber. That way, I don't have to keep any of the old hardware.






Once I got all the bushings in, it was time for paint. Threw on some Steel-It on everything.


Got some "help" from utilizing some cheap child labor.




Installed all new ball joints
 

SoupGFX

Member
Dec 6, 2013
184
116
43
San Diego
Pick up some Deavers while on the search for other random T100 parts on CL.


I finally made the big leap to start the control arm installation process. I have never done anything like this before, so this was a big deal for me to start ripping apart my perfectly fine, operational truck. EHHHHH.... It's definitely a leap of faith but a fun and exciting one. You guys have been a super helpful inspiration for me and so thank you all for sharing your experiences.

I started tearing it part this last Friday and got the driver's side control arm, torsion bar, both front fenders off that night.




Then before the Super Bowl on Sunday, I was able to get the other side ripped out and was able to get the driver's side lower control arm put in. Removed both brake calipers also. Installing that bottom control arm was a bitch. The bottom mounts needed to be spread apart. I'm sure the modifying of those arms made them spread a bit. Luckily I was able to stretch them out a bit using some all-thread, bolts and washers.





So I've decided to ditch the torsion bar setup and go with a coil overs. I have access to get some Fox shocks at a considerable discount so I figured it would be a good time to take advantage of that while it's still available.

Talking with some of you guys, I've decided to go with a shock hoop. I plan on doing this on my own so this whole process is going to take alot longer than I originally planned (I'm sure you all know that feeling). The biggest thing that scares me about this whole process is cutting out the fender and re-mounting all the brake lines and electrical. Again, I have never done any of that so it's all uncharted waters for me.

One question I have for you guys, I plan on cutting out the top shock mount (not all of it just the tab hole), both bottom bump mounts, upper control bump mount. I plan on running a limiter strap and bump shock. Would you agree with that plan or should I keep any of those mounts for some reason?
 

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