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jj128s

member
Jun 8, 2021
17
4
3
Kau, Hawaii
Sorry been busy. But my last email to Dave was that I'd try the bushings again after a little settling. That's what I'll do before calling.
I think now I have about 85 miles on the springs now. I did bring it to Firestone for an alignment. That's how I knew to get the 3.5 degree caster camber adjustable bushings. I had installed 2.5 adjust bushings and set them as best I could to get me to town. Firestone didn't do anything but toe. What I had done was the best could be done with those bushings. They told me to get 3 degree. I drove it 40 miles back home that day. It wasn't as squrilly. I drove it 20 miles yesterday for a safty check. It was unreal squirrely! This after installing the 3 degree bushings. That's the castor right? It really needed to be steered back to straight every little turn.
I reread the chart on the adjustable bushings and it shows that the settings are:

drivers side is -3 degree camber (which looks good) with positive 1/4 degree castor.

passenger side is -21/2 degree camber (seems to have settled now looks good now) positive 1 degree castor

Am I right to try to get the drivers side to 1 degree castor for an improvement in handling. Should I try for more? The more castor I try to dial in the less negative camber I'll have. I'm gonna give it a shot. No way it's staying like it is. It's barely drivable now.
 

jj128s

member
Jun 8, 2021
17
4
3
Kau, Hawaii
If I understand the TTB right, the caster is built in. The bushings and the chart that comes with them are adding x amount of degrees to the already built in caster. I tried following the 82 f150 manual which needs the ride height. Taking the measurement as per the manual, and then refer to the chart, my measurements are off the chart. 190mm passenger side and 209.55 mm drivers. No use there.
So I did trial and error.
Trial 1: I adjusted the bushings, using the chart to -1degree camber with + 23/4 caster, both sides. Wow! what an difference! The steering was perfect. But.... the camber was way too positive.

Trial 2: I adjusted both sides caster to +21/4 degree and camber went to -21/4 degree passenger side
-2 degree driver side

I made passenger side camber more cause it needs more.

I could feel the difference in the 1/2 degree less caster settings. The steering wasn't as good with the extra +1/2 degree. I could live with it, if I had to. The camber is little off. Little too positive, eye balling it.

Tomorrow I'll try for another +1/4 degree caster but it doesn't look good in the chart for camber.
 

DirtFiend602

DR Maitre'D
Dec 12, 2008
14,943
2,203
113
Use the eccentric cams you have there for your camber correction. You won't get nearly any caster adjustment trying to keep your camber numbers reasonable. Post some pictures of your radius arm mounts. The rad arm bracket spread from the frame will typically determine caster numbers along with heim adjustment. Are your beams still bushed? Or did dave do uniballs? If you're bushed you're pretty much stuck with caster adjustment out of the eccentrics , or you'll be replacing pivot bushings often.
 
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mikebrier12

Senior Member
Aug 30, 2010
234
52
28
California
I believe he designed his radius arms with the caster built into them for beams with a cut and turn. I have his beams and radius arms without a cut and turn and I believe I have to much castor(haven’t had a proper allignment just eyeballed everything till I got coilovers) I maxed out my alignment cams to fix camber( eye balled lol) my plan is to see where it’s at and if it’s to much castor I might try to swap the radius arms side to side and flip them to see if it’s any better. I have boxed radius arms so it should work. I notice your radius arms are pointing up towards the front. While mine are levelish.

Edit, another thing I thought of is I have 1.5 copycat drop pivots and d44 swap so it’s kind of a bastard setup. Good luck man




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