TJW's '96 Ranger Backyard Build

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Drayke

Always Baja Bound
Jan 29, 2007
1,035
270
83
Torrance
waddaya mean? I ran a hose from the vent about halfway up one of the upper links and had a hard-mounted breather there.
 

Jester9

The Jester's Workshop
Apr 1, 2014
409
149
43
Central Texas
waddaya mean? I ran a hose from the vent about halfway up one of the upper links and had a hard-mounted breather there.
The truss will cover up where the original threaded vent hole is...does everyone just "move" the hole to the top of the axle tube, or over on the pumpkin? Etc. I plan to put in a fill on the back/top side (leaving room for link brackets) of the pumpkin

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partybarge_pilot

Uno mas Cervesa!
May 14, 2004
11,575
2,704
113
Easton, KS
Open the original hole up, weld tube on it that will go up through the brace. Put on larger diameter tube. I would also put a splash shield on the inside of the housing.
 

Jester9

The Jester's Workshop
Apr 1, 2014
409
149
43
Central Texas
Open the original hole up, weld tube on it that will go up through the brace. Put on larger diameter tube. I would also put a splash shield on the inside of the housing.
That is an option i am toying around with...what do y'all think about a threaded check valve to help prevent oil from coming out/up the hose?

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partybarge_pilot

Uno mas Cervesa!
May 14, 2004
11,575
2,704
113
Easton, KS
You just need a large enough diameter hose to prevent it from making bubbles inside it. 1/2" is enough to keep it from pushing out if you run a shield.
 

Jester9

The Jester's Workshop
Apr 1, 2014
409
149
43
Central Texas
Finally got a chance to put in a little work today after working and diaper duty!
Time: 4 hours
Dranks: 5 Coors Lights
Material: 1" black pipe scrap
Music: Heavy Metal
Tools: welder, tape measure, drill, ¾" bit,, Wixie angle finder, hf jack, random section of 4x4s
Explitives: nada
Weather: 85° and humid
PPE: jeans, long sleeve shirt, boots, welding gloves, hood.
Progress: used the black pipe scrap to try and figure out my radius arm location...I am hoping to keep it in the center of the FRAME, not in a form of drop down bracket. Right now at "full" bump there is no contact with the cab. My consideration for full bump is as much bump travel as I am comfortable with, not necessarily full metal to metal bumpwhich should net approx 4" more bump travel( i am planning ahead for tire squish, etc) at full metal to metal bump with 33s i will be REALLY close to laying frame. PICS:

Trimming required!!!!


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Jester9

The Jester's Workshop
Apr 1, 2014
409
149
43
Central Texas
What do y'all think about the radius arm...again this is just "template" stuff, right now there is no contact at full lock with the ear on the steering knuckle maxed out

Just to throw it out there here is how it is now...

Option 2, put a little kick in the tube

Option 3 kick with plating, still bolt on radius arm

Option 4 just weld the mother fucker to the beam with plating similar to option 3

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96f-u250

Senior Member
Sep 27, 2013
1,020
258
83
VenTurA 805!
Dont put that bend in the radius arm, just mount it inboard on the beam a little more . Then bolt it on and make the tabs off the back of the beam the same length along the beam as the front plating or longer .
 
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Jester9

The Jester's Workshop
Apr 1, 2014
409
149
43
Central Texas
Dont put that bend in the radius arm, just mount it inboard on the beam a little more . Then bolt it on and make the tabs off the back of the beam the same length along the beam as the front plating or longer .
I appreciate the advice! Running it a little more inboard should give me a little more clearance for larger tires, right now there is zero rub with 33s but in the future I plan to run 37s so I'm trying to "build ahead"

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96f-u250

Senior Member
Sep 27, 2013
1,020
258
83
VenTurA 805!
Yeh no worries. should be good, then you can add plate to as far out on the beam as possible and box in your rad arm beam mount for extra strength on the beam end. What size tubing and rad arm boxing plans?
 

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