TJW's '96 Ranger Backyard Build

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Jester9

The Jester's Workshop
Apr 1, 2014
409
149
43
Central Texas
Yeh no worries. should be good, then you can add plate to as far out on the beam as possible and box in your rad arm beam mount for extra strength on the beam end. What size tubing and rad arm boxing plans?
Plans for the radius arms are 1.75x.120 main tube and 10 gauge plating...maybe...the other option is "stacked" (2) 1.75x .120 tubes with 10 gauge plating. Both options will have 10 gauge overlays in appropriate areas. Radius arm brackets will be ¼"

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Jester9

The Jester's Workshop
Apr 1, 2014
409
149
43
Central Texas
Why do you want to keep the mount centered on the frame rail?
As of right now the frame is the lowest point of contact to the ground, just trying to keep all my bracketry up higher than that if possible. If you have any recommendations otherwise I would be happy to hear them. With the radius arm pivot where its at I have zero contact at "full metal bump"

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Jester9

The Jester's Workshop
Apr 1, 2014
409
149
43
Central Texas
What do your caster numbers look like
Caster at ride height is still adjustable but I plan to shoot for 10° when I build the actual radius arms...suggestions? I did not have a chance to measure the change through full travel

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partybarge_pilot

Uno mas Cervesa!
May 14, 2004
11,575
2,704
113
Easton, KS
The lower you can get that mount without it doing argicultural work, the better off you will be. Look at the radius the tire swings. The higher that pivot is the more forward movement you will have. When the mount is lower once the radius arm is past level, the wheel will be moving rearward. This puts a lot less stress on things and makes the front work better.
 

Jester9

The Jester's Workshop
Apr 1, 2014
409
149
43
Central Texas
The lower you can get that mount without it doing argicultural work, the better off you will be. Look at the radius the tire swings. The higher that pivot is the more forward movement you will have. When the mount is lower once the radius arm is past level, the wheel will be moving rearward. This puts a lot less stress on things and makes the front work better.
That does make sense, I was taking a lot of measurements with the tape measure and reference point and noticed at fullish bump the beam moved about an inch forward...looks like I will be making brackets below the frame lol

This should also help me to keep the radius arm straight and allow for larger tires is the future. As always your insight is appreciated!

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FasterNU

Mega Member
Jun 28, 2006
7,597
974
113
San Diego
yea I remember someone saying to think of it like a blind man using a walking stick and pushing it forward on concrete.... the lower he puts his arm.. the less likely it is to grab on sidewalk and jam up.

I'm more curious how your steering is going to work out though. It seems like at full bump the knuckle pivot is well above the frame rail? You gonna have bends down in steering?
 

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