TJW's '96 Ranger Backyard Build

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Jester9

The Jester's Workshop
Apr 1, 2014
398
139
43
Central Texas
Definitely mount off the bottom. With a spacer to put the it down a little farther. Then a tab to double shear it.
yea I remember someone saying to think of it like a blind man using a walking stick and pushing it forward on concrete.... the lower he puts his arm.. the less likely it is to grab on sidewalk and jam up.

I'm more curious how your steering is going to work out though. It seems like at full bump the knuckle pivot is well above the frame rail? You gonna have bends down in steering?


Mounting tie rod underneath would be better for frame clearance. Minimizes any bends needed in the tie-rod.
Y'all have made most excellent suggestions and added brainpower to this build! I am grateful for that! Today is a no progress day as it is a nice 95° and sunny so its time for another redneck pool day! I need to pick up some some ¼" plate so I can draw up my radius arm brackets and cut them out, maybe I will do that tomorrow....fuckin steel place has fucked up hours due to the Rona.

As far as the tie rods go the bump pics are "beyond" maxed out for my liking...based on some angle calculations and strong tape measure work if it is at full bump there and I allow it to droop to the same angle I would be netting around 25" of travel lol

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Jester9

The Jester's Workshop
Apr 1, 2014
398
139
43
Central Texas
Found some spare time to get out in the garage today and based on the advice of my esteemed colleagues on this forum I went to town on making below frame radius arm brackets...
Time: 3 hours
Music: country/ metal (switched over to the hard stuff when I was done drawing)
Weather: hot as fuck...dont want to know the temp
Material: Coors Light template, ¼" mild
Tools: sharpie, tape measure, square, grinder, HF drill press, welder( just for a couple tacs for stackin and drillin)
PPE: long sleeve shirt, jeans, boots, ear muffs, safety glasses, welding gloves, hood
Still need to round the edges on the face plate and so on...Progress...


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1450ranger

busy
Aug 1, 2003
8,094
45
48
yucaipa
www.giantmotorsports.com
Not sure how wide you're gonna go, but you'll like have to clearance those radius arm pivots for the jam nut & radius arm. For a few reasons; The hole is too far back in the pivot, the radius arm typically isn't perpendicular to the bolt. The radius arms typically angle outward toward the beam. If the truck is wide and the radius arms are fairly short, the angle is pretty significant.
 

Jester9

The Jester's Workshop
Apr 1, 2014
398
139
43
Central Texas
Not sure how wide you're gonna go, but you'll like have to clearance those radius arm pivots for the jam nut & radius arm. For a few reasons; The hole is too far back in the pivot, the radius arm typically isn't perpendicular to the bolt. The radius arms typically angle outward toward the beam. If the truck is wide and the radius arms are fairly short, the angle is pretty significant.
I'm not too worried, radius arm are gonna be around 40" long and they are made for 3" wide misalignments.

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Jester9

The Jester's Workshop
Apr 1, 2014
398
139
43
Central Texas
Sounds good - it will be close
Well you were right I had to clearance the pivots Clarence! Progress today was just that and a shit ton of measuring, cycling, and more measuring...BORRIIIIIINNNGGGGG!!!

On a more important note what are y'alls thoughts on caster for the king pin set up...i had been doing a lot of my measurements basing it off of 10* at ride height....too much? Too little? I'm kinda at a stand still at the moment til I figure this out!

If it helps this truck is gonna be 70% play, 25% on the road, and maybe 5% race...maybe

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