Whoaaa, I must be tripping .... Project GhettoTrip. G3 Bitches.

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FasterNU

Mega Member
Jun 28, 2006
7,258
660
113
San Diego
Sure, why not.... In order of builds

Ghetto1: I built this in my front driveway. My buddy Ryan owns it now. I think it's in pieces in his yard... doing a V6 swap.



2Ghetto: I built this one in the garage from house mentioned above. This is my personal truck. I like to refer to it as "The Rusty Trombone" now.



BroDaddy: This is my buddy Justin's truck. We didn't build all of this. The main chassis was done by KelFab. We just reworked it and linked it, added bypasses, painted, etc. Started build on trailer! Then he got a garage.



GhettoTrip / G3: That's this build thread. This is my brothers truck. This was built in my backyard. And built fast! Full notes in this build thread you can copy.



G4: This is the one I am building in my backyard right now: VERY similar to G3. This is also my personal truck.

 

FasterNU

Mega Member
Jun 28, 2006
7,258
660
113
San Diego
That's the plan for G4. Trying to be big baller status.

6.0 V8 and 4L80e with manual valve body so I can make V8 sounds without losing my inner joy of jerking off a stick.

Better parts all around because I really must hate seeing money in my bank account: (billet beam ends with custom uniball knuckles and camburg hubs, tubeworks housing in back with Ultra case and 40 spline axles, 3.5 bypass shocks all around)

Hopefully AC and heat... oh and some wipers.. Because I'm from San Diego and anything +/- 10* from 76 is unbearable... and I heard it rained here once.

Nicer stereo with some deep bass .... to help with those early morning desert bowel movements.

Bigger cell and more up travel so I can do more passes down main.

I will probably stuff 37's on it at some point too... because well, 35's are the new 33 bro.
 

FasterNU

Mega Member
Jun 28, 2006
7,258
660
113
San Diego
OK. Man, you forget all the small stuff it takes to add a couple of shocks....
Took bypasses to DownSouth so they could get the top caps off. I was defeated without the special tool. Of all the people that got to do that work... Christian from here did!!! Thanks dood!! Thanks for marking the caps too!! So glad you did that before disassembly.



Got the plates all done on the lowers. Everything is welded in now too.






We had some spacers already cut down from when we did the BroDaddy bypass install. (They are from his 2.5" King coil overs)
So, we went ahead and removed the goofy rubber pads from shocks and put in the shortened spacers. We also put a full .020 stack on comp and deleted the thick fulcrum to make it semi-rate plate style(.100 distance from rate plate). Oh, and we put a standard .008 stack on the rebound. I figure this will be a good starting point.

So, then we got to cycling with the new spacers in...while we also did our best on this new to me clocking exercise.



Yea ummmm, what the fuck is my brother doing? Yanking it!? No wonder this takes so long! LOL



FYI: the spacer cut in half is JUST long enough to keep the piston above the lowest comp tube return. I calculated it out to about 2.75" to the lowest hole on the bypass tube ... and the bottom side of the piston was right about 2.75" inside the shock body at full droop with the spacer cut in half. PERFECT!!

Obviously, this lengthened the stroke of the shock, so it now has 14.75" of shaft/travel. It also just so happened to be the exact amount we needed to keep the bypass from topping out before the coil over. (It appears the coil over tops out under 1/8" before the bypass.) So fucking perfect. The truck still cycles the full 18 or 18.5". Can't remember exactly, but when we strap it up it is 17 or 17.5".

What matters is...I know he ends up with right about 13.75" of shaft showing when strapped. So, I know for sure we are above that bottom comp tube at full droop ....and we didn't lose ANY travel... and we don't have to remount limit straps or anything! PHEW, NAILED IT!

Now the scary part of clocking the tubes. The driver side looks like it is right about 45*... "loosened" on the cap from factory setting. So, If i am thinking right... for this side we need to calculate it at a full 180* of top cap rotation... minus that 45*. So, 135*.

What's strange is.. the passenger side seems to need a fair bit more rotation in order to clear! Not so sure why. Perhaps this thing turns farther left than right? I didn't expect to see so much difference. It is closer to like 60* or more. Part of the problem is... the damn misaligns allow a lot of rotation on their own!

I'm skurd I am gonna fuck this up. I double checked though...and it seems right.
 

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