Thanks for the info. I’ll look into the auxiliary oil cooler. I do know the water pump and and radiator was replaced. Has a big aluminum radiator also.Mine doesn’t overheat, but it also needs the AUX fan running when pushing it hard or playing. I wired in a relay to so I can turn the AUX fan on when I want it on. I also took the transmission fluid out of the radiator and plumbed it into a big stacked plate cooler in front of the radiator.
It still gets pretty warm 215-220 when fully loaded and climbing big hills on the highway. I have 4:88 gears and 35’s, so it runs at about 2600 rpm at 70. 3200+ in 3rd gear climbing grades.
The cooling system in mine was “gone through” before I got it. It had a fresh water pump, t stat housing and radiator. The coolant was nasty though. Straight rusty sludge. I flushed it out like 5 times, so much crap came out of it.
How much crap do you need to chop off and grind flat to get those stiffeners in?So I haven’t done much so far other then ditched the bar pin top mount on the rear shocks. The bushing housing was contacting the body when the suspension bumped on the street.
Went thru and tightened the shit out of everything on the front end and she’s already so much nicer to drive.
want to tac up the front bumper and get that burnt in. And have to clean the body rails to prep for the frame stiffeners.
Sounds sticky! I’ve had good luck with the polycarbide wheels from harbor freight for removing undercoating without melting it and slinging it everywhere. Wire wheels and flap discs always make it sling for me.Honestly don’t have to cut or grind. Have 18’ of body rail to clean the 1/4” under body coating from